I really enjoy reading the questions and answers on your site. I check it daily for updates. I have been watching to see if anyone might have the same issue that my SBR mare is having but after several months no luck so that is why I am finally submitting my question. I think mine just might be a special case.

Here is the story and it is a long one so I will try to keep it as short as I can. In July of 2006, I purchased a SBR mare, When I first got her, she was missing a large chunk of her front right hoof and was really under weight. We didn't do much with her the rest of that year, mostly worked on getting her weight up and had our farrier work on her to correct the hole. As spring rolled around, it was time to start getting ready for our 2007 show season. Things were going good until we went to our first show. Once we got there, she seemed to be off. We thought maybe she needed reset. She wasn't bad if I sat the trot. We never made it to the show ring that day. We had an accident, she got spooked and one thing led to another and I was thrown. I tore my ACL and doctor said no riding horses for 2 months. In the mean time, we had the mare reset and we continued to do ground work with her. She seemed fine until we went to our next show in July. I rode her that morning and she was fine. I put her in the liberty class and she was lame. Took her home and had the farrier out the next day. He couldn't find anything wrong with her so he reset her. We watched her for the next couple of weeks and she continued to show soreness. The farrier came back out. This time he brought some help. They pulled my mares shoe and started digging out the hoof and found a blood blister. We worked on that for several months. Finally in January when the farrier was out, the blister was finally completely grown out. Here is where the story changes a little. In April, we began getting ready for this years show season. Farrier out, everything good. We decided to take her to a boarding stable so that I could work her inside. Well when the vet was out to do the coggins test, he suggested that we may want to have a metabolic test done on her. He noticed she had a very cresty neck, fatty deposits on her rump, and pot belly. Said it could be something called Equine Cushing's. We didn't have the test run that day. We started long lining her and I was noticing she was off again. It was only the one direction from what I was seeing. We called the farrier back out right away. He watched her and determined what needed corrected. He made the changes.In the mean time, I did start reading up on Cushings online and did read that horses with Cushings are prone to hoof problems. After mare was reset, we decided it was just time to ride her. She was fine at first. Then she started up again. An old trainer friend of my moms thought maybe she was just doing this because she had just been sore for so long that she is just expecting it or that she was playing me. I rode her again. I worked her right through it. She was fine if I sat the trot the first direction and okay if I posted second direction. She cantered fine. Came back out the next day and no matter what we did, she was lame. As I was getting ready to put her away, noticed she was bleeding from up in the coronary band area. Thought she might have caught herself in the canter. But I just knew it was time to have the vet out.

The vet checked her out completely. He then had me lunge her both directions to see what she was doing. He then put in a blocker below her fetlock and had me lunge her again. She still showed signs of soreness. He then blocked her from fetlock down. We then worked her again. I saw her trot that day like I had never seen her trot before. She really had motion but because she has been sore since I first started working her, we had no idea. Well the vet did XRays. He also found she had a quarter crack. The vet diagnosed the following: quarter crack, thin hoof wall, and very slight case of laminitis. He also said he wanted us to go ahead and start treating the mare as though she has been diagnosed with a metabolic issue. We had the farrier back out and he has done everything the vet asked to be done. The vet had the blacksmith do the following: She does not grow toe or heel. He had him trim her toe so that she would be at a sharper angle. Her sole is showing around the bottom of her foot now. We do have a gel pad and plate on her. The blacksmith did bevel her toe. The quarter crack has grown out about 1/4 - 1/2 an inch since middle of may. We were wondering if we should put a plate on this.

Here is where I am looking for answers. We had her reset around May 21st and we were supposed to give her a week off before any exercise. Vet said to walk her daily starting with 10 minutes per day and work our way up to 30 minutes. We have been doing this but she still seems to be sore. What are your suggestions on this?

What do you know about Equines Cushings? I have been reading so much on line and so many with different opinions. We have changed her whole diet. We now have her on oats, have her on a supplement called Smart Control IR (2 oz per day), and her hay. I have cut the treats out completely. I do notice that the crestiness is starting to go down.

I am including a few pictures. 2 are of her hooves since the farrier made the corrections. I also added a picture of her outside taken before we got her and one taken after having her about a year.

If I can supply you with anymore information, let me know. I really appreciate your time.

Wow!!! Thanks for your letter. (I think) It sounds like you have really been through this. Two years is a heck of a long time to be dealing with a lame horse. I can't tell everyone, often enough, how wonderful I think the American Saddlebred Rescue program is and how much respect I have for you who take these otherwise "lost" equines in. Unfortunately, by the description in your letter, I feel we can assume why your mare ended up in the program. Chronic lameness is a very trying, painful, costly, non productive condition for all concerned. It ultimately wears on the owner as it wears on the horse. Although I doubt I can add much that has not already been covered by your "support team", let's give it a try.

I would put as much stock in your diagnosis as anyone's. When lining and lunging in a circle, the horse, if lame, will always display his lameness. Depending on the direction, it will almost always manifest itself with the inside foot. This is an excellent test for lameness but much work in a tight circle is one of the worst things to do for correcting it. Thank you for the pictures. (not available here) She really is left with an extremely short foot. I assume the raising of the angle is your vet's way of treating the laminitis. ( by the way, I feel that having "a little" founder is like being a little pregnant ) I would be somewhat concerned with the sole showing around the bottom of her foot coupled with the length I find it hard to believe she could be comfortable. Discomfort and stress are two of your worst enemies right now. Please let her grow some foot unless they are concerned about a "Sinker."

It sounds like the quarter crack is under control if it has grown down that much. With a thin wall horse a plastic patch might be of help to insure it grows out. If the abscess is drained, that should improve her comfort factor.

The periodic lameness, fat "pones", crestiness etc are all possible symptoms of Cushing's Disease. Additionally, excessive thirst and urination, excessive appetite with no weight gain, shaggy, rough coat and chronic laminitis, appearance much older than actual age, can also show up. Insulin insensitivity usually develops as well.

Cushing's is actually a benign tumor on the pituitary gland . The above symptoms are a direct result of the changes in the horse's metabolism caused by the syndrome. Treating it is no easy task but diet is one of the keys as you have discovered. Lush pasture and high carb grains work against you here. ( Atkins diet candidate for sure)

Peroglyde is the accepted medicine for treatment of this condition but until actually diagnosed there is no point in using it as it is very expensive. I have had an old campaigner on Peroglyde for 5 years now and it is miraculous. It has retarded the founder issue, the fat pones and shaggy hair etc. We still can have a few soundness issues but he is a very comfortable happy horse for the most part. He is 27. There is a new NASAID out, name escapes me, that causes no adverse effects to the horse's liver, stomach or kidneys as with Bute and Banamine. It may be given every day, but we only use it when needed which is occasionally. It gives him great comfort on a bad day.

If we are correct about this diagnosis, it is my feeling that you are in for an all out war with this disease. Bringing her back to "Show Ring" ready may just be the stuff dreams are made of. Making her comfortable is within your grasp. Sorry I can't be of more help but feel free to write again if needed. I wish you Good Luck and hope to hear good news in the Guest Book.

LF Lavery

I wanted to start with how much I enjoy reading your site! I'm usually good at figuring out most horses, but I have one who has a problem I have no experience with. The mare has been here for 4 months. Her owners hate her. For the last 2 years, she's balked before cantering the first way of the ring at shows. (They just had a aisle way at home) She would sometimes balk going into the first turn at the trot. The first thing we did was have her teeth floated. She had a cap wedged between 2 other teeth, it was pulled and she was given time to get comfortable with her mouth. I hoped this was her problem, but I was wrong. Every time this mare thinks you are going to guide her to the right, she either freezes up, or goes very fast to the left. After working her for a period of time, getting her to bend to the right, her neck started getting quite a crest. We had a thyroid test done, and it was fine. A few weeks ago, we went to a horse show and she was left home and hand walked daily. After a week of not turning to the right, the crest was gone. I questioned her previous trainer about a possible neck injury. I was informed she did get in a bind a few years ago where she was turned out and rolled under the gate with her body on one side and her head on the other. At the time, they didn't think anything of it, but did say the problems started soon after that. The owners don't want to spend any money on having her checked, or treated. I understand, from my vet, there is a ligament running down the top of the neck that could have been damaged. He didn't think there would be much to be done for her since the owners don't want to spend any money on vet work. I'm pretty stumped on what to do with her. Any suggestions?

Thank you so much for your question. From your excellent description of the situation, it seems as you are very much on top of things as one would expect from a professional trainer. You have closely observed and lived with an unacceptable behavior. You have attempted to find and treat the possible causes. You have kept your client's best interest in mind and I am certain you have passed the Veterinary's recommendation along to them. They have paid for your advice, you have given it but it is entirely up to them whether they wish to follow it or not. This kind of a situation always frustrated me, as well. The good news is.....my advice is real cheap! (But remember, you get what you pay for!)

As you have pretty much narrowed it down to an old injury, let's approach it with that in mind. Your Vet was, of course, correct. The ligaments are called the Nuchal and supraspinous ligaments and between the two of them they run the entire length of the body. The one that may be affecting your issue is the Nuchal. It's course takes it from the "Poll" of the head to the wither and it's main job is the support of the neck. An accident such as you describe could easily have damaged this ligament and nerves. In fact, that type of accident is very common and is responsible for a staggering number of "mysterious" deaths each year. As we seem to be on a "Budget" and without the advantage of modern medicine, will have to be content trying to treat the symptoms rather than the problem.

Why don't we:

Keep her supple. Long line and stall bridle to the right. Riding, always turn to the right when reversing. Even tying rope to halter with head to right several times a day will help keep her supple.

Reduce any pain or swelling. Hot soak swollen areas. Massage to move fluids. Glycerin, alcohol, furicin, carbolic acid neck sweat with hood.

Training. Remember your job the next month or so is more a rehab than a training one. She really has a reason for what she is doing although down the road habit might get in your way. Try to build some confidence with her now as it will make your training much easier later on.

I wish I could be of more help but we are really limited in what we can do the situation being what it is. It would be my hope that your hard work will show so much improvement in her that maybe the clients will decide to treat the condition. Then it would be a perfect world! Thanks again for your question. I look forward to reading of your progress in the Guest Book. Good Luck, (Good Turning) and Good Riding,

LF Lavery

I have a question concerning my country pleasure horse. He is showing great. But, in the summer he becomes very sensitive to insect bites, therefore he is constantly swishing his tail. Some say that horses do it because they are doing something that is difficult for them. I think he does it because the bugs are "bugging" him, and he's annoyed. I keep his stall as clean as possible. (If you ask my husband he'd say it's cleaner than our house!), and I feed him garlic and keep a fly sheet on him 24/7. When showing he swishes-so judges see that and don't think that looks desireable. Is there anything I can do?

Thanks LF!

Thank you for your question. Leave it to a gelding to Swish around! Actually, this is common problem. If it is indeed insects, you know the drill, I am sure. "Baste" him with Repel-X, Skin so Soft, Cowboy Cow Chips, or any product guaranteed to keep them away. Don't forget under the dock of the tail and for that matter, the tail itself should be sprayed. I think I have tried just about all the products there are and have come to the conclusion that the expense of the product has little to do with it's effectiveness. Just find one that seems to work for you. There is a patent supplement expressly for flies that is fed on a daily basis. It's name escapes me. Perhaps one of our readers knows and will post it in the Guest Book.

You have been correctly informed about the swishing tail as a possible sign of stress from work. It also can be a ticklish reaction from legs or spurs or whip. Some horses will react to the tails of a riding coat. If he is a "free sweater", it is possible moisture between his hind legs bothers him and chafes. (Use corn starch there instead of baby powder.) The dock of the tale can build up some aggravating crud very quickly so keeping the dock extremely clean can sometimes be of help.

Short of only showing in Freedom Hall, that is about all I know to tell you except please buy him some "horsey" breath mints to cover that Garlic smell. I hope this helps, Good Luck and Good Riding.

LF Lavery

This one is on for Lonnie as a Judge. To Hat or Not to Hat in Hackney Pleasure Driving?

A good friend of mine has listened to my passion for American Saddlebreds and Hackneys for years. She went to a horse show and took a few riding lessons, decided driving was for her in the show ring and bought a nice Harness Pony with the temperament for Pleasure Driving. After finding several good outfits and not showing with a hat, we need to ask a professional should a hat be worn. She has attractive short hair that stays in place. We'll have to jet glue and pin the hat to her head as her hair is fine. In the area she shows in the majority were a hat.

The hat finishes the picture in a saddle suit. So, is a hat preferable to the naked head?

Thank you for your question. I suppose keeping the hat on could be problem and since the Horseman's favorite (a staple gun) is out of the question I will give you my feelings on the hat situation.

Historically, I am certain that from the first time a lady stepped up and took the lines from her driver, she was wearing a hat. As a small child driving her Welsh pony to a governess cart, she was wearing a hat. It was customary then it might be called tradition today. I for one, truly appreciate a lady wearing a tasteful hat in the show ring. Several years ago a client of Donna Moore's showed a spectacular Fine Harness Mare while outfitted in beautiful gowns and elegant Hats. She started somewhat of a trend but as with most things today the Millinery biz has taken a down turn in class.

However, to answer your question, unless you are showing in a attire conforming and restricted discipline as in Carriages etc. you are under no obligation to wear a hat while showing your Pleasure pony. Additionally, as a judge, while your attire could play a very small part to enhance the overall "picture" it is not a criteria we use in the final adjudication unless it is completely unacceptable and disrespectful attire. In essence, I believe the "Tip of the Day" covers it all!

So feel the wind in your hair and use that sun screen and most importantly, enjoy your pony. Look forward to reading of your latest wins in the Guest Book. Good Luck and Good Driving.

LF Lavery

Okay....... here is the story. I have a 3 year old hackney that was broke to the cart last fall. Wonderful, no problems. Tried to buck a few times. Spring up to this spring. I have been hooking him by myself since April. I take him all over the place. Through the field, through the woods, around the track and even broke him to ride. Wonderful, no problems. Just an easy going little guy. Hooked him to the show cart with the show harness 4 times. Perfect. This past weekend it was his first show. First time at a show pulling the cart, new sounds, hearing other ponies pass him. He was fine in the makeup ring (just a little squirmy) and he went in the ring fine (4 other ponies out there) and acted like a pro. I was thrilled. We reversed, did the jog, and half a lap at the road gait and then out of no where he started bucking. Got his back leg over the shaft and I knew I was screwed. Now he is scared, took a nose dive into the fence, came up and turned around. I lost my balance and fell out of the back of the cart and the lines slipped from my hands. Now he is running across the middle of the ring, buggy in shambles, harness broke, but my husband ran out and caught him. I am fine, the pony is fine....... as soon as we got home from the show I hooked him to the work cart and he acted fine. Hooked him the next day and I could tell he felt a little tense and thought about acting up, but didn't.

I am going to be scared to show him again, but he has to have the experience. Do I buy a kicking strap to use at home now? I am just freaked out a little and I sure don't want the pony to do that again. I have been driving ponies for 30 years. What do I do if he starts bucking in the cart at home? How do you discipline for that while you are in the cart? What would cause him to do that all of the sudden?

Thanks so much for your question. From your great analysis, I can tell you are no beginner at this and did all the right things. I must say, I feel like I should be thanking you as your vivid description of the "crime" set up a "mental movie" for me that had me in stitches even though I am sure that is not the reaction you had at the time. Having trained many of "the little brown rats" over the years, I am no stranger to crime scenes as you describe. But you got to love 'em!

I am not at all certain if it is in the distance genetics, early imprinting, the formal level of training, some shift in a DNA pattern, an askew chromosome or for that matter, something in the damn water... Some of these little "shits" do this often and seldom predictably. I am not sure one can ever "train" this issue completely out of them, but I think we can come up with some ways to lessen the odds of it happening again. Even though I have just stated many Hackneys come with an inclination for this behavior, there are, indeed, some triggers (weak excuses) for it that can bring it on as well.

Classic triggers:

• Crupper that is or becomes too tight during work. (Near guaranteed to work!)
• Cinch bound. (do not tighten bellyband all at once, walk and tighten a little at a time)
• Checked too low. (They find it harder to kick when they are checked properly)
• Shaft bearers too low.
• Loose hitch, tugs mobile and slapping sides.
• Hitched too tight (I know, I know but you got to love 'em)
• Different footings hitting boot of the basket while working. (gravel)
• New surroundings such as a horse show
• Crowding by ponies from the side and behind.
• Sloppy lines especially getting under tail.
• Loud unaccustomed noise.
• Because you've let them.
• I do feel reasonably certain that Sunshine is not a trigger! (You got to love 'em!)

For some time, lunge this pony before you work him and each time you hitch your pony, run down this check list making what corrections you can and paying particular attention to the first three listed. Line him a little before hitching. If you feel more comfortable use a correctly adjusted kicking strap but remember that is not an option at the show. Keep searching for other triggers for your pony each time you work him.

At the next show, do the same and try to get this pony in the ring at least twice before he shows. Walk around both ways in long lines, and then drive around as if in a class. If you both feel comfortable and you have the time, take your husband for a ride and drive all around the show grounds walking, stopping, meeting new people and seeing new things etc. Any time you see a sign or feel this issue about to happen, use your lines for very firm and immediate correction. Jerk him back to attention! Your a long time away from the pony carrying you home by himself after a night of revelry.

Thank you once again for your question. If you will follow these suggestions, I predict you will have very little trouble coping with this problem. It is important that you give it no chance to happen again or it will become more difficult to address. I hope I may have been of some help and I look forward to reading of your training progress in our guest book. Good Luck and Good Driving.

LF Lavery

FOLLOW-UP: Thank you for your suggestions. Since the show I have hooked him 3 times (without a kicking strap) and he hasn't kicked, but I can tell he just feels different. A little tense and not quite as comfortable. (It was a scary experience for both of us.) Should I keep hooking him almost daily or take a break from the cart and long line or ride him? Thank you for your help.

I have since composed myself and no longer have that mental picture. I am certain it was a very scary experience. I am also certain you will persevere. As with all training programs, a little variance is always conducive to keeping things fresh and tedium to a minimum thus keeping the student's mind on ready to learn.. Certainly, vary your program. But continue the check list and to lunge as described. Thanks again,

Hi Lonnie,

First let me say hello and tell you that I am happy to be back. My first show horse was Richlon's Delight, a gorgeous 3 gaited mare that my Mom bought for me. I met you when we made this purchase. I was 8, its okay if you don't remember! We loved her and even when we retired her at 14 she strutted around the paddock every inch a show horse. After we retired "Richie" I ventured into the world of dressage and warmbloods and stayed there until this past year. My best friend has always stayed in the Saddlebred world and I ventured back to join her.

In April I purchased a lovely 3 (now 4) year old gelding He is big (17 hh) and long bodied. Although he has baby moments where he seems to look for ways to spook himself he is a really good boy and is extremely honest. No bucks, no rears, just a jaunt sideways or canter scramble now and again.

We have worked him for two months in a twisted copper snaffle with his tongue tied (to the best of my knowledge his tongue has always been tied). He has worked well in this, although as I write this I do note that he has a tendency to stretch his head down and sideways to the inside when we take a walk break. He is more whoa than go, and we are working on strengthening his gas pedal.

However this week in preparation for our upcoming shows, we moved him to the double bridle. It is a nice copper mouthed curb and twisted bradoon. We tie his tongue and the cavesson is done up very tight.

It has been a shift for me to get back to Saddleseat insofar as I never realized how much work my dressage saddle does for my position. So I am constantly reminded to find my balance, roll my shoulders back and keep my hands consistent (I would love to drop them to the withers).

I was horrified given all our progress to date to get on my horse on Tuesday night in the double bridle and find him going around barely moving forward (several times I was left posting the walk) with his head up in the air. He felt "inside out" and resistant to moving forward.

I tried to experiment with hand positions: pushed up to his neck, wider, up, down. We would have moments that it would come (mainly when he was distracted) but then it would fall apart and he would be inside out again. If anything my reins were too loose, and he typically requires more curb rein.

I shall send you a video of my very first ride on him...he did this to me then (and I rode him terribly terribly terribly) and his trainer got me through it, but I don't know how really. He doesn't really do this to other more accomplished saddleseat riders although he doesn't step right up to the bridle with them either.

Can you offer me some guidance? I am certain it is me!!

Thank you so very much for your question and the wonderful video, I am glad I was finally able to open.(not available here). As I watched it, I was very taken with Speedy. He is extremely attractive, in tip-top condition, he moves very well and appears to have manners, a wonderful mouth and a great attitude. The stable is very nice and you seem to be very fortunate to have a extremely talented and patient horseman as your trainer. Congratulations, you have put yourself in a win, win situation. Fortunately, the video spoke volumes about your question, as well.

From your letter, I truly believe you already know how I am going to respond and I also congratulate you on that deduction as self- analyzation is never fun and is often not easy. Of course, you and I both know what needs to be addressed. Equitation!

Form to function covers a much wider area than just the impact of the horse's conformation. The various forms of the equitation disciplines, although sharing many of the same points and a balanced seat, are indeed different depending on the "job" the horse is to do. i.e. Your "hunt" seat would be of little help cutting a calf on a Poco Bueno quarter horse. It appears as if you are making excellent progress returning to "Saddle Seat" but, make no mistake, there is still some distance to go. Nearly every unwanted movement of the head, undesirable position or change in momentum, correlates with an erratic movement of your hands. You are finding these more dramatic at this time because the double bridle is a much more delicate instrument than a single snaffle. Where three pounds of pull and a heavy "jerk" can easily be tolerated on a snaffle bit, much less pull and a slight jerk can bring a horse to a complete halt in the double bridle. While you are " finding your balance and rolling your shoulders" and lifting your hands high to where you feel they ought to be for Saddle Seat, these movements are being immediately telegraphed to your horse's mouth and amplified by the curb bit. This is not your fault but simply a part of the difficult transition you are making back to Saddle Seat. You are trying way too hard! Until such time as you feel comfortable enough in the correct position where hands, seat, legs and posture are all working independently for the common cause without your making a conscious physical effort to "assume that position", I would suggest:

Watch the video and have another made, compare. See "cause and Effect".

Stretch, bend and loosen up with some exercises before your ride and even after being mounted.

Explain to your trainer you would feel more comfortable lowering your hands a little and that you would like to take a bit more hold so that you and Speedy may both feel some security. He can easily make some bridle adjustments to accommodate this.

Forget about "vogue-ing" and holding an artificial S/S posture with your hands above your chest. Drop your irons one hole. Find a S/S position that feels comfortable to you not how you think you are supposed to look. (In the day, even short trainers tried to look like Tom Moore in the saddle. It actually made us look ridiculous and very easy to beat!)

Practice in the snaffle as you concentrate on steadying your hands and your overall form. You will not be confusing Speedy as easily nor have a negative impact on his mouth.

Take some lessons on a school horse whose gaits will be easier to ride and on whom you might ride without stirrups to strengthen your legs and seat. Take a lunge line lesson.

Know this, you are a good rider and once this new position feels as comfortable and as second nature to you as Hunt Seat, you and Speedy are going to be very highly competitive. It will take a little work for you now but the payoff will be extremely rewarding. Please remember, you are fortunate to have a wonderful horse. You are also fortunate to have an excellent trainer, communicate any concerns you have with him. He must read Speedy's mind but he shouldn't have to read yours.

I hope I may have been of some help to you and we look forward to reading of your Blue Ribbons in the Guest Book. Thank you again, Good Luck and Good Riding.

LF Lavery

Dear Mr. Lavery,

I so enjoy reading your website! I have learned so much! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.

I own a small riding academy and work my own show horses and lesson horses. I would consider myself an amateur owner trainer as far as the show horses go. I can ride, line, and jog a horse but do not consider myself a professional horse trainer.

I am writing to seek help with a lesson horse. I have only had him about 6 months. He is a beautiful 10 y/o that is amazing with the my students at the walk and trot. However, when we go to canter he returns to his show days getting big and anxious. Unfortunately, more times than not he balks at the request or balks anticipating the request. By balking I mean, he stops dead in his tracks or backs to middle of the ring. He arrived at my farm doing this behavior. I though perhaps it was because he had been turned out for a couple of years. However, over the last six months he has continued to repeat this behavior. I have tried to understand his issue and work through it with him. The horse understands his leads and canters slow as an equitation horse when not balking. I do not feel pain is an issue as he is sound with no apparent distress but at this point who knows. He does give a little buck when asked but it is not frightening more playful than anything. He will canter on cue if he is not expecting the ask. He is regularly vet checked, shod, teeth floated etc. I am a little stumped as to how to help him. I know go forward is always better than go backward! Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. None of my students are attempting to canter the horse at this time for obvious reasons.

Thank you so much for your question. Allow me to say that from reading your letter, the insight concerning his issues, the details you have made yourself aware of and the steps you have taken to deal with him so far, are exactly the things a concerned professional trainer would do. Don't sell yourself short. Additionally, you must be a very dedicated instructor as well since you even insist upon teaching your students to canter! In all seriousness, if you don't mind a bit of homework, two previous posts will give you a great deal of insight about these issues and their possible "treatment". You will find these in the archives:

• "She whipped the Tag team"
• "Country Pleasure Mare that Leaps into Canter"

As I am certain you are aware, any undesirable behavior that is not immediately corrected becomes more enabled. ("given an inch they take a mile") A lesson program environment is an especially difficult one in which to address training issues such as this as many inexperienced riders on a "spoiled" horse only increase the chances of further undesirable behaviors manifesting themselves. Additionally, firm correction really is not meant to be shared with impressionable spectators. Oh, for a perfect world. At this juncture, it seems you do have common ground and a productive individual so long as we walk and trot only. If we have to have the canter option, let's see what we can do about it.

If you have done your "homework assignment" you already know how I feel about the key to canter issues being a relaxed horse and some ways to allow this to happen. The problem here are the addition of the other inexcusable behavioral issues such as backing and balking which require immediate and firm correction making it difficult to accomplish this relaxation at the same time. Here is what I suggest:

Use the various techniques from the two posts to relax your horse and let him build some confidence in you. If you can keep him out of the program for a week or two or at least be very careful to allow only a top level students to take lessons on him. Incorporate those techniques into their lesson.

Lunging and Long Lining, even jogging at the canter before your ride and in between rides can sometimes be mentally helpful so long as it is a quiet procedure rather than "YA-Hoo". This will also help remind him that creeping or backing off the rail is unacceptable unless you desire it.

Although you must be ready to firmly correct any behavior issue, try not to set up a situation for the issue to present itself. Never try to canter from the same place, never do the same things, vary what you do so he must pay attention to you for his direction. Back him in corners only and make certain if he backs 3 steps he then walks forward 4.

As important as it is to correct don't forget to reward any step he makes in the right direction. A kind word, a pat on the neck, quitting while ahead, any positive reinforcement for a positive step on his part. Always remember, a tired horse learns negative things better than positive ones.

I feel quite confident you will be able to make some good progress using your talents, patience and these tools. Thank you for your question, I hope I have been of some help. We look forward to reading of your progress in the guest book. Good Luck and Good Riding,

LFLavery

Hey Lonnie,

I'm a trail rider with a Quarter Horse named Huck and we like to mosey along around Griffith Park. Huck is about 12 or so and a very personable fellow most of the time. Like his famous namesake, Huckleberry, he's a very mellow guy. Sometimes a bit too mellow, I'm finding. When we are out with other riders, I have to contantly nudge him to keep up. I can multi-task, but it can be trying to manage a conversation while keeping Huck at a nice pace. When we're going downhill, he is especially slow and I'm not sure if it's because he's sore or just worried about losing his step. What ends up happening is that my elegant riding partners on their noble Saddlebreds end up waiting for us at the bottom of the hill.

Given all the problems one could have with their horse, I feel a little silly for asking about something so...bland!

Thanks for taking the time.

Thanks so much for your letter. "Mellow" is not a usual problem for me to address. Like Martha Stewart I like to think,"It's a good thing!" I can, however, somewhat understand your disenchantment in Huck's trail performance. The way you describe his "downhill" prowess, you could spend three days getting to the bottom of infamous "suicide hill". Let's take a moment and see if we can figure some things out.

You mentioned noble American Saddlebreds as Huck's riding partners so we will start there. In my minds eye, I see Huck as about a 15 hand chestnut Quarter horse. He is very well bodied being wide chested, and extremely "J-LO" in the rear. His front legs toe in slightly, he has a very kind eye that if you look hard might have a twinkle in it. He is short coupled meaning his back is not long so the distance between his front legs and hind is not very great. The next time you ride with his noble 16 hand friends stand one right next to him and take a good look. Pick one his color and note that the noble one's chest is narrower, his hind end much slighter, he is several inches taller but his legs seem even longer. Speaking of longer, the distance between his front legs and hind is at least a foot longer. Huck might weigh a little more though. It's like there are two different patents from two different inventors. After you have compared them together, lead one of them 20 steps at the walk. Lead the other, starting at the same point, 20 steps at the walk. It is hard to believe the difference there can be in the distance of twenty steps. Imagine how much difference when they walk a mile or two. Why? Form to function!

These horses were each bred to have the conformation to do completely different jobs. The American Saddlebred to cover plantation ground as a comfortable riding horse and Huck's kin meant to work rough stock for short distances on rough ground. This is a reality and you cannot change the conformation, but all is not lost.

Try leading the parade rather than following. Many horses see little point in trying to catch up when they feel they can't win.

A pair of spurs, used correctly, can cut down the effort it takes to urge him forward. Be certain to always coordinate a "cluck" every time you use the spur so he associates them together.

At some points in your rides, try pushing him to near the point of jogging for a hundred yards or so. Then relax. Then repeat several times during your ride.. Let's call them Huck's wind sprints. Lope now and then. Vary his speed and perhaps he'll be more willing to get out of his rut.

Above all, remember he can only do what he is built to do and he really isn't cheating you just maybe not giving 110%. Appreciate the fact that he is mellow and enjoy the ride, after all, you are not paying by the hour. I hope sometime to tell of when I was judging there and of my exciting trail ride in Griffith Park when a good friend informed the rental agent, "He is a trainer and can ride anything with legs." That is when I first realized that "Mellow and "Mosey" can be very good things!"

Thanks again, I hope you have a new perspective and I may have been of some help. I hope to read about you and Speedy's improved trail rides, in the guest book. Good Luck and Good Riding.

LF Lavery

I love this site and go here often. I’ll try to be quick. I have 3 SBR horses, 2 geldings, 1 mare. I gelding has been here over a year and doing magnificent. The other gelding and mare rode down here, an eighteen hour ride together. I could immediately tell the gelding was strongly attached to the mare, so I kept them in separated paddocks. Time goes by and the gelding is fine, rides fine, behaves well as long as he sees the mare. Then at about 3 months into him being here, he decides he is going to do anything to get out of any sort of activity, lunging, riding, even being led to the paddock. He misbehaves in such ways as cowkicking while I’m putting on the saddle, striking out while leading, will not move on a lunge line, and simply will not move under saddle. So he goes from fine to terrible after he gains weight, gets teeth done, feet get regular work. He is showing no sign of pain, to the contrary I think he is the healthiest rescue I have. I think it all boils down to he has more respect for the mare than for me. I am nothing more than an annoying fly in the way. I am committed to making a pleasurable ride out of him. Do you think sending him to a trainer for a month would help or would he return to his attachment as soon as he was reunited with the mare? Also, would an ASB trainer even take my rescue? I can not keep him out of sight from the mare here. I have 5 stalls and 2 paddocks, he can see or smell her just about any where.

Thank you very much for what you do!

Thank you so very much for your question, all the way from Georgia. I feel your analysis of the situation is pretty much right on leaving us but a few avenues to follow. You have, of course, gained some great insight in how males act when they are hopelessly in Love! And to think you have fed him all that grain improved his smile and gotten him pedicures and this is how he shows his gratitude. Seriously, you have unwittingly allowed this behavior to be reinforced by not giving needed correction earlier and unfortunately it could progress from being an inconvenience to a much more serious problem if not addressed. By not wanting to be the "bad guy", you have allowed him to assume the role. I speak from experience as I have fallen in that trap once or twice myself by forgetting I really do not want a horse as my best friend but rather somewhere between partner and servant. Without guidance, respect and some discipline, they can take an awfully lot of pleasure out of the relationship. But let's see what we need do now.

First, and I apologize, I wish to assign you a little homework as I have addressed these issues in depth in the past. A May 11th posting titled "Never too old to Wean" addresses a portion of your problem and will give you some insight as to it's root.

Frankly, I am more concerned by other behaviors you describe. Striking, cow kicking, sulking, balking etc are inexcusable and will escalate if allowed. These actions must be punished immediately on occurrence! You must take firm command. You can not allow this to continue. He weighs 1000 lbs, you do not. He will need more than a tap from a crop as punishment. The "petting zoo" will have to be closed for a while until he earns that type of treatment.

If you wish to try to address these issues yourself instead of sending him to a trainer, I would suggest:

Take him off grain for a while.

If you ride at night, turn him out all day (better yet 24 hours a day.)

Keep the two separated never again in the same place. If he is out, she is in visa-versa. In the barn their stalls should be the farthest apart. When he is in the barn and she is not, sprinkle her stall with hot water and Pine Sol.

If possible, have someone with you when you are working around him.

When working around him in crossties, Please be careful! Have a lead shank chain on his nose and jerk it hard when he does anything wrong.

Be the bad guy and dole out swift and firm justice when needed. You have no other choice at this juncture.

Many years ago I had the privilege to train a absolutely wonderful World's Champion Harness Pony named Pride's Starmaster. His whole life he been with wonderful trainers, starting with the Tom Lowery, Gib Marccuci, Donna Moore. I had much success with him for several years but serious health problems with his 84 year old driver necessitated his early retirement from the show ring. (He was 17 but could have shown many more years) His owners were wonderful people and asked if we would keep him in retirement at our farm. Being he was a very small and very sweet pony gelding and had been such a pleasure to train I just offered to keep him for the rest of his days. We turned him out with a small band of antique but very nice barren broodmares that fall. I had trained him to come when I whistled and the mares would follow him making catching them much easier. I noted day by day he seemed to be becoming the leader of this small herd of horses. It was a very cute sight watching the little guy "order" his herd around.

One day, several months into his retirement, the farrier was there and I sent a boy up to bring him in so his feet could be trimmed. It was about an hour before I noticed none of my help was in the barn and neither was Starmaster. I walked up to the Pasture where he reigned supreme over his little band of mares and noted: They were bandaging one Mexican's arm, one was limping badly, one was being chased around the pasture by this little pony. The fifth boy was no where in sight.

I had the "big" one and used language that they could certainly hear but now I am glad they could not understand at how they could let one little sweet pony run them around like that. Immediately I opened the gate, walked into the pasture, and whistled for the sweet little pony. I would show them how it was done. I was so proud, he quit chasing Juan, stopped in his tracks turned and started trotting towards me. "When I train them, they stay trained", I thought to myself. He was so willing to please he started to canter to me. Now, he was at a dead run and he seemed to have no ears. I could, however, see just about all his teeth.

I didn't use the gate when leaving the pasture, I threw myself under the fence at the last moment. No one said anything as I walked back to the barn. Starmaster put his tail up over his back and trotted as high as in the show ring around his pasture.

When all the dust settled, I found out that this had all started a month or so ago when a newer worker had not held his ground and ran scared from him, which the boys thought was humorous, at first. It just escalated from there.

I hope I didn't bore you with the story but I wanted you to know things like this can happen. I feel confident you will be able to handle his "rehab". If you decide you want to try a trainer, I will be happy to suggest one. Thanks again for your questions, I look forward to reading of your progress in the Guest Book. Good Luck and Good Riding.

LF Lavery

Hi,

It's me again with a new question concerning my 12 yo SBR mare, Shannon. I am dealing with the hot and humid weather by riding bareback (with a bridle) and mostly inside. I want to teach Shannon to neck rein. What process should I use? How much time do I allow per session? Estimate how many lessons before she either learns or I give up.

In answer to your question let me begin by saying that spending the time is very important in the training of any athlete . However, correct repetition, is the most important facet in the training of horses, who truly are, beasts of habit.

Your current program, quietly riding bareback, inside, is an ideal venue for teaching a horse to neck rein. It is not necessary for you to "cowboy-up" and quickly put a good "handle" on your mare nor do I think that process is something you would want to do. Even in your "advanced" years, I think there will be enough time for you to teach her a level of reining you both can enjoy. (Barrel racing isn't on your wish list, is it?) Here is what I would suggest:

In a snaffle bit bridle, each time you ride allow plenty of time for your mare to relax. When she feels relaxed, working on one rail and using two corners, walk up and down that rail. In your two hands, one rein becomes the "bearing" rein the other the "indirect" rein. These change roles as the direction of the turn changes. Walking with the rail to your right, don't pull but open, palm up, your left (bearing) hand and the same time lean the right (indirect) rein on the right side of the horse's neck. Your left calf squeezes and bends horse's body to the right. This should turn your horse towards the center of the arena. When you have moved 5-10 feet off the rail turn your right (now the bearing) hand palm up and apply the left ( now indirect ) rein to left side of the neck. Squeeze with the right leg bending the body to the left. When back to the rail, repeat the first step and so on. Done correctly, with finesse, you should be creating a serpentine down the rail. Upon reaching the corner. Stop. Back a step or two. (Backing is not simply moving backwards but also a yielding of the mouth and lowering of the head.) Move forward to the wall. Using the right hand as the bearing hand reverse using the left rein and right leg. Repeat the above steps going down the rail. It is important that you always reverse the opposite direction when you reach the other end. The "key" to correct repetition is to use all the aids in unison each time. Do this 5-6 trips the first time and then quit. This will not be taught in a day! Each day there after, spend a little more time and as you progress, use the indirect rein a little stronger and the direct a bit easier....legs remain strong! In 2-3 weeks of steady work making this a part of each workout you may find that not only can affect a turn with the indirect rein but possibly with only your leg as well. At this point, you may start affecting circles and can continue to refine these turns until you are truly neck reining. As I mentioned, this is not exactly the "cowboy way" but I feel you will be fully capable and most comfortable with this program.

This is a difficult but certainly not a impossible project so long as your execution is always correct and you are very patient. If you are successful, you may take a great deal of satisfaction in a job well done.

I hope this is of some help and I look forward to reading of your progress in our Guest Book. Good Luck and Good Riding!

LF Lavery

I have been lining the Grey in a fat rubber Pelham as suggested. I have progressed from lining on the snaffle ring to lining on the curb ring and he is doing great, quiet mouth, setting his head nicely…no complaints. So, Sunday I tried going back to the double bridle which is a mullen mouth curb wrapped, wrapped chain, and smooth snaffle with a draw caveson snug not tight. He started out great the first way, very light and setting his head nice walk, trot, canter. Then we reversed and he started up. First just a little pushing and a little dive, then straight neck and cold jaw. We reversed back and he wasn’t too bad, so we did some walking and figure work and ended on a good note. He still wants to fight the mouthful.

What do you think of those training curb bits that have the snaffle mouth floating through a ring on the curb shank making them sort of like a Pelham? In the mean time we’re back to lines and the Pelham or riding in four reins on a snaffle neither of which cause any trouble. He’s still cutting wolf teeth, and the dentist is scheduled for next month.

Good to hear from you again. I am glad some suggestions are being of help. I have used the bit you described and it worked well for me as does the pelham on which it is based. However, as I alluded to in January, there is no point of high expectations concerning the curb until all dental issues are addressed. Caps, wolf teeth, etc. can be torture for a five year old especially when the mouth is loaded with bits. To continue to try to introduce them at this time will be extremely counter productive. It sounds as if you have found a sort of program that you both can get along with. I would recommend staying on that program until the teeth are done. At that time you will find your task with the double bridle so much easier, for the both of you. I must say, I was surprised to hear you are working the Gray, I thought it would be at least till July before New York thawed!

Seriously, thanks for the follow up question. I look forward to reading of your further progress in the guest book. Good Luck and Good Riding.

LF Lavery

I adopted Fire and Embers aka Cupid Periaptor x Commander's Spitfire by The Commander's Contender 15 year old mare. She was on the road for about 10 years. Has been gaited in the past. I adopted her because I have RA and cannot post any longer. I only trail ride now so I wanted a smooth gaited horse. My Paso Fino gelding has Cushings and foundered.

She is fat and sassy now but her feet are horrible. I just purchased Cavallo boots so I can begin riding her, long time before she can be shod. I paid a trainer for 3 1/2 months of training to smooth out her gaits before I brought her to the West Coast; but unfortunately no services rendered. I now have to start from scratch and no trainers in my area; unless I drive for four hours to a trainer.

I haven't ridden a gaited horse in years. My question is how can I do the training myself? Cupid is very quiet and sweet but forgets her old training days. If she has a "rocking horse" canter I can sit it, if not it will only be walk, slow gait and rack for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you so very much for your question and for yet another American Saddlebred's rescue. I think I can be of some help to you but I doubt it will be a quick fix but let me explain.

Unlike Paso Finos, Walkers, Missouri Fox trotters, etc. most of whom are born with the propensity to do their specific non-trotting gait, American Saddlebreds are, for the most part, born trotters with the ability to learn to slow gait and the rack. A group of Walking Horse weanlings in a field will amble away when motivated. A like group of American Saddlebred weanlings will trot. Knowing this going in, I think you will better understand my answer.

Because we must "show them the way" while they are learning to rack, and at the same time make it a comfortable experience for them, we adjust their shoeing accordingly. We balance them with shoeing to make it easier for them. Usually, a gaited is horse is a little longer or heavier behind than in his front shoeing. Often we will place a round leather strap on the hind ankles to accomplish balance when we are not certain how best to change the shoes. The very act of racking requires the horse to shift his weight to his haunches for push and elevation in front. This is accomplished by raising their heads. If your mare knows how to rack, it should be fairly easy for you. Before you do anything, I would call the trainer and ask him for advise. Hell, I am giving you mine for free, you have already paid for his. Seriously, his input might be as critical to what you want to do as the shoeing is. Remember, he knows more about your mare than you do, at this time.

I would suggest, just go to your yellow pages and have any farrier come out and trim her front feet to a natural angle and fairly short 3 3/4- 4 1/2 inches. Trim her hind feet to a natural angle but leave her at least 1/4 inch longer behind. Lunge or long line her for a few days. Unless you are working on asphalt, leave your Cavallo's off of her. After a couple of days, get her ready to ride... put nothing on her front legs and feet. Put the Cavallo's on her hind feet. I would suggest getting another rider at this time as there could be some trotting. Wherever you work her, walk up and back several times. Lift her head and with each pass encourage her to walk more briskly. (the walk is a 4 beat gait as is the rack) Continue for 5-10 minutes. If she indeed knows how to rack you will know it very quickly as she will readily pick up some speed. You may want to try putting the leather straps on her hind ankles to make it even easier. If this is successful, just keep it up and then when you can get her to a Saddlebred shoer, he can further balance her to do the job you want done. If this does not work for you, I am afraid it would be time for that 4 hour drive. If you would like, I would be happy to recommend a trainer near you.

Once again thank you and I truly hope I have been of some help to you. I look forward to reading of your progress in the Guest Book, which I might add, will take complaints too. Wishing you Good Luck and Good Racking,

LF Lavery

I have a 3 year old thoroughbred in training. Her delay in racing was due to injuries. Capped her left hock -healed beautifully , and we waited again when she had a sand gravel abscess on her I think right inside fore but that was nearly growing out-before sending her to the training farm. None of her old injuries seems to be bothering her. The trainer feels she is just not giving her all and has more in the tank. She seems to have a problem with her foot fall. She is being trained in a running martingale because (looking around) she was not paying attention to her job. two months in training. Now she is restricted from holding her head normally , which is somewhat high and slightly tucked.. The problem is she is not showing any improving speed. when I videoed her at a breeze she was switching her tail (maybe due to the encouraging whip) (not improving on speed) and her front limbs where so high in the air - the diagonal pair sequence of the stride at a fast gallop was, the hind leg and opposite front leg where out of sink. This pair normally falls together (which is the 2nd phase of the gallop) but the forearm was still in the air when the hind was already on the ground. I think its the running martingale to low or tight. She is in the air to high on the front end , how can she have speed if her front end looks like she's swimming. Do you have any ideas what this could be Other then taking off the running martingale. I think the running martingale is causing the problem but what if it isn't ? Did you ever experience this? maybe a seedy toe ? Thank you for reading this.

Thank you for your question. Although I don't often deal with questions concerning Race Horses on this site I am quite familiar with them having trained many for the track over the years. As you can well imagine, Thoroughbreds sent to me for training were sent for a reason so I also know a good deal about their training issues and problems.

From what you say, she sounds like a horse that can't stand prosperity. In other words she can get herself in trouble when no one is asking her to do anything. That is kind of a "filly" thing but it is also a sign she has some spunk. She seems to have healed remarkably from some threatening injuries so you obviously have done a great job as caregiver.

I thank you for including the video, that certainly makes our job a lot easier. ( Not available on this site)

I can understand your concern over the lack of speed. Race Horses do have to be fast don't they? However, I must remind you, there are two-year-olds with nearly twice as much training as she has had. I really feel we can rule out seedy toe as a cause for this concern. I do note that she appears to toe out in the right front which makes her a candidate for interference down the road if not addressed. At this time I feel it is part of the cause of her sloppy lead changing and the cross cantering (where the lateral and diagonal legs are out of sinc) Training, shoeing, and maturity will also help sort this out. Although she appears to be somewhat over at the knees and this can cause her to go a little higher than others, I truly feel this extra motion, which I do not feel is that excessive, is coming from her bridle. She appears to be using it for the leverage to lift and not allowing it to back her up to where she is pushing off her rear. When she finally learns to push, that front motion should turn to stride. I would not be as concerned about the length of her martingale as I would be about having her teeth checked. So far as her attention, I always had very good success with blinkers on one at this stage. I also feel you will see a marked difference in her once they start training her in "sets".

I must say she is a very attractive and mature looking filly, looks in high order and a very likely looking candidate. But please remember, she could in no way be as fit as she looks with the limited amount of training she has had.

Also, always keep in mind that your trainer knows her better than anyone, at this time. If you trust your trainer, he does know best. I wish you very much luck and look forward to reading in the Guest Book when to bet on her. Thanks again. I remain,

Sincerely,

LF Lavery

Hi Lonnie.

I have a 22 month old, registered Spotted Saddle Horse Filly. She is also registered with the National Racking Horse Assoc. She has been rode twice in an indoor arena at our stable.

The first time wasn't all that bad. She calmed down a bit about 10 min into the ride and then started her rearing up again but at least she walked a little bit.

The second time she was rode, she just reared up constantly at the sliding door that led to her stall. She would NOT walk or rack or leave that area. She was trained with a surcingle and long reins for about a month. My rider couldn't get her to turn either direction. All she wanted to do was rear up and then back up.

What can we do to make her more comfortable learning to carry a rider?

Thank you for your question. I can appreciate you're taking "about a month" to teach this filly to Long Line etc. A proper foundation is the key to a successfully trained horse. Although I have mentioned, in these very pages ( see Mar 22 ), my feelings about a horse that rears, I feel we may be able to help with this one. Let's talk about it.

When we are on a quest to understand and then correct poor behavior, we must begin in the three basic areas: 1. Is the problem physical? 2. Is the problem a mental issue? 3. Is there or was there a flaw in the training process? I feel, with the information you have given me, she is guilty on all counts but not completely responsible for her actions. ( fortunately you have good riders and she is not up on murder charges yet!)

Is the problem physical? Conformation, soundness, pain, discomfort or anything that is in the way of her performing correctly. Everything you have said she has done could readily correspond to her teeth. A 'long" yearling can have a lot of issues going on in her mouth causing much pain and discomfort when the bit is added. If she is shod comfortably and she is sound and has good conformation, we can move on.

Is there a mental issue. Would the horse rather revolt than train? Does it defy authority? Does the horse seem capable of processing what you are trying to teach it? Your filly certainly revolted and sure seemed to quit processing. Young horses are much like young children, they are not strong and tire quickly and they do not have a very long attention span. I think you will agree that ten minutes of a successful training session is far better than a thirty minute disaster. She was obviously tired and confused. By rearing and backing up, the question is was she revolting out of self defense or was she defying you. That is hard for me to tell but given her age, I doubt she is an "outlaw"...yet.

Is there or was there a flaw in the training process? We have identified one in the previous paragraph and I believe I can name another. For years, I was the first rider on my young horses. Ninety-five percent walked off without a buck, guided, turned and did all I asked of them I even trotted some the first time. When one acted another way, I knew enough ground work had not been put in. I went back to long lines and the basics. Walking around with long lines is much less wear and tear on one's body than bouncing off the clay in the arena.

I recommend:

Get her teeth checked and floated.

Go back to the lines for several weeks so she may forget about the bad riding experience and gain more basic training. Spend much time lining in a circle at the opposite end of where the door to her stall is. When walking around your arena, make certain that door is shut or you have an assistant leading her with a long rope when you near the door. You cannot afford any more mistakes at this juncture or you will be reinforcing a bad behavior. When the time comes to try the riding again, lunge her at the opposite end for a minute or two, then put your rider up and lunge, at the walk in that circle. Stay there for several rides as your rider takes more control and maybe trots a time or two. Then, when you think it is the time, lead her around the arena and past that door. Do this for a day or two and she should tell you when to turn her loose. Above all remember, they don't get better the longer you work them and keeping them relaxed is the key to success at this stage. I note the letters s..l..o..w.. in your Email address. That should be your key word over the next 3-4 weeks.

Thanks so much for your letter I would love to hear of your progress in the "guest book". Good Luck and Good Riding.

LF Lavery