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CURRENT POSTS
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January 27, 2012
Well, Toto, We’re Just not in Kansas Anymore
(Discussing the current “health” of the Horse industry)
My question is what do you think of the current market status of the Saddlebred world? I know many people feel that the market is soft right now and I agree. However, I still think there is a strong market for a “competitive” horse in all divisions. So do you think that the Saddlebred show community is slowly pricing themselves out of business so to speak? It seems that for a competitive horse even on a local level you’re going to need to spend $10,000 plus. And unless you’re a skilled amateur owner trainer you’re going to need to spend anywhere from $600 up to several thousand dollars per month on training. So is it becoming an elite company of people who show in most instances?
As someone who loves Saddlebreds and would love nothing more than to be able show on a local level I just don’t see it happening with my budget. I’ve heard stories from the trainers I’ve worked for in the past that you could pick from several horse shows every weekend within 50 miles of your house and there would be a lot of spectators. Now in Iowa we have a handful of shows per year with little to no attendance if you don’t count people there who are showing.
Will this turn around or will it eventually be truly a “rich man’s sport” and the average Joe will just be sidelined?
Thanks,
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Tip of the Day – It is for sure everything in the horse business costs more today… the only bargain I have been able to find is on oats… they are much cheaper if they have already been passed through the horse!
Thank you so much for your great question. It might have been better asked of an economist than this old horse trainer, but I still think it is a good question but you need not limit it to the American Saddlebred. To be sure, this situation has spread across the board, Thoroughbreds, Standardbreds, Quarter Horses, Morgans, Hackneys, Arabians, etc etc. The “low end” and just average horse is not a much desired commodity at this time. However, the “top of the line” is very much in demand in all disciplines. Are we pricing ourselves out of competition? Yes and no. Is it something the trainers and breeders are doing wrong? Yes and no.. Is this a symptom of an unhealthy industry? Yes and no. Is it because of the economy? More yes than no. Can we “fix” the problem? I am not sure!
If you would truly like an opinion, explanation and an answer to your question from a man whose only credentials lay in the fact he has spent his life in “Manure Rearrangement”, well …click your heels together, for here it comes.
“Pricing ourselves out of competition?” In 1988, I paid $7200 for a decked out Pick-em-up truck, $1.50 a bale for hay, $3.00 per hundred for oats, bedded horses on 95 cents a bale, straw and paid $120.00 a week for barn help. Land was “high” at $2200.00 per acre and long before they became Farriers, the Blacksmith was high at $65.00 for a reset. The Mc Donald’s burger was 40 cents, Gasoline was 99 cents a gallon. Should the electric bill rise above $60.00, there must be a problem. Etc., Etc. As you know, prices such as these no longer exist and the price of everything simply continues to keep rising. Certainly it is more expensive to own and train a horse today and yes, that does limit your market to people with a higher percentage of discretionary income, however, like any other business, there is no way I could make a living let alone make a profit charging the $475.00 a month board and training I did back in 1988. This, I am afraid, is simply a fact of life. Another fact of life and the one that has made our type of business so very popular for so long is the reward one receives from the ownership of a horse and involvement in this wonderful hobby. How does one put a price on the benefit a family garners as participants in this wholesome avocation?
“Is this something the trainers and breeders are doing wrong?” Since we have already touched upon the high costs of training the horse, coming immediately to mind would be the prices being charged for the purchase of horses and why it seems the very expensive ones are the most in demand. Returning, once again, to 1988, you could find a “B” circuit competitive, entry level, horse for $2500.00 and you might be able to win at Louisville with a horse that cost $35,000. Of course, there is something to be said about inflation but from $35,000 to $350,000 seems quite a jump. Why then? Like any product, horses start as “raw” material (colts) and must be processed into a finished product to be a useful, desirable and saleable commodity. Taking into consideration all the costs involved with raising the foal, (stud fees, mare purchase and care, vet treatment, registration fees etc.) and all those we have already mentioned and what they have risen to today, one could easily have $6500 tied up in a two year old, untrained colt. Add to that approximately $15,000 a year to further process with training and it is easy to see why that $2500 “starter” horse is so difficult to find. Also, consider a breeder of 10 horses each year must be extremely astute or very lucky to have 2 of those ten foals turn out to be top, Show, Race, Jump, Carriage, etc., horses while he still has thousands of dollars in the other eight. It is indeed a breeder’s nightmare to find a horse he has raised and has $27,000 in is not worth $2700. The very few “successful” foals must now sell in such a way as to defray the loss. This is simply a fact of any business and when you add the old adage “it cost the same to feed a good horse as it does a bad one”, one can easily see some of the reasons things are where they now are. For instance, spending $900 a month to train a competitive champion would certainly seem to make more sense than spending a like amount on one that does not have the talent to be a winner.
“Is this symptom of an unhealthy industry?” or “Is it because of the economy?” The horse industry, in general, is off, make no mistake. Registrations are down in nearly every breed. Public sale averages have been down for a few years now. Horse Shows, racing and other types of competitions are somewhat “off” in the number of entries. Private sales are down as are breedings. Unhealthy? I think not but definitely feeling the effects of several factors. Tax laws that have adversely affected the write off as a business or hobby now make investing in horses not quite as attractive as it once was. One of the first rules in business has to do with supply and demand. For several decades now the supply of horses has been growing while the demand has been creeping in the opposite direction with the past few years of a slowed economy, almost at a gallop. Additionally, I truly feel we have just experienced somewhat of a “market” correction concerning the prices of horses. I personally feel that although, as we have mentioned, costs of everything have risen dramaticly, the true value of a horse still starts out at about 19 cents a pound and it is difficult for me to justify three quarters of a million dollar prices for show horses and 3 million dollar thoroughbred yearlings. It seems I am not alone with this quandary.
“ Can we “fix” the problem?” About the only expense I see that could decrease, and that will depend on the election, is gasoline. Cheaper gas means less expense to the farmer harvesting grain, hay and straw thus lower prices to the breeder, owner or trainer who buys the products. Cheaper gas means less cost to the owner of the business that boards or trains and uses farm equipment. Cheaper gas would afford less cost and would promote more traveling and shipping to and from horse shows. I fear all those other expenses will continue to rise, with or without the election so we are kind of stuck there. Dealing with the “supply and demand” issue, exposure and promotion, just like any product, is the first rule of marketing. Although certainly an essential part of doing business, advertising in a breed magazine does absolutely nothing to broaden your market. It is the GENERAL public you need to reach. No business can survive by “feeding” on itself. The Thoroughbred industry is, indeed, praying for a Triple Crown winner, knowing that the drama and publicity it would generate is much more exposure than the advertising dollar can buy. The Quarter Horse breed’s shot in the arm will be the reining which they have worked diligently to finally get included in the Olympics. Bottom line, any exposure to the masses will improve and grow your market. Case in point, the movie “War Horse” will send thousands to stables for riding lessons or trail rides. As we deal with show horses, our first and easiest exposure to those “masses” is the horse show. As you have pointed out., certainly not as many as there used to be. I will bet that anyone who showed horses in the 60’s and 70’s has shown on a small town’s high school football field to an extremely large crowd of people. The death of those weekly, "mixed" breed horse shows was a sad day as we are now finding out. They died for many reasons. People aspired to show at the "better," breed shows and stopped supporting them. Those “extremely” large crowds quit going because shows then (as they still continue yet today) did nothing to keep up with myriad of other entertainment options such as cable TV, the internet, AMC multi screen theaters, PBR “rodeo” (a 92 minute over the top, thrilling extravaganza), the circus (which reinvents itself each year) the Rock concert, I could go on and on. The “time honored” and sacred format of our horse shows is so antiquated as to be one of the most boring fiascos a “new-by” family could possibly be exposed to let alone want to be part of. Without the horses, there is no horse show. Without the crowds, there are no sponsors or ticket sales and without ticket sales and sponsors, the Jaycee’s, Kiwanians, Boy Scouts or whatever, found there were easier ways to raise money than a horse show. A business and its market should appear as a triangle, a broad base (entry level) at the bottom and a fine point at the top (the big bucks) in order to truly be vibrant. Without better promotion to the general public, a complete change in the way we present horse shows, a better availability of entry level horses coupled with some wisdom in the pricing of the top level ones, the aggressive support of breed associations in all these endeavors and a boost in the economy, I fear we might soon have an upside down triangle. That is not a good thing!
Take heart in this. For the nearly 60 years I have been involved in the horse industry, this same or similar question has been asked. For those same years I have heard it answered. I am sure mine is no better nor worse than those who have answered before. I do know that some of the answers to the problems lie above although even I am not certain which they are. One person can not change the horse industry but many, who have given the issues a lot of thought can unite and have an impact. I therefore urge you and anyone who cares….Give it some thought!
Thanks so much for your question. Good Luck and Good Riding,
LF Lavery
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January 23, 2012
Novermber 20, 2010
The "Buck" is not Stopping Here!
(Chronic Bucking Problems)
I just got my first horse last mothers day, she is sweet and gentle but when you saddle her and get on her that totally changes. Even with someone leading her around wall im sitting on her she try's bucking. The vet said she was healthy, the saddle and bit fit properly. She is just not broke. Its not lack of experience because we had a professional come by to ride her and my horse tried bucking her. And the previous owner was no help to us he said he had no clue what commands she used. We have tried riding bareback and using just a halter and riding western and riding with a halter, and all different combination, but it didn't help. We have also tried pulling her nose to our knees when she try's to buck, cause that's what people keep telling us to do, But she just freaks out even more. Please help 3 trainers have already given up on her and we dont know whats wrong.
Details-
Im not sure if this stuff will change anything but just in case. She is a 15 year old quarter horse, she was sold to us as a beginner broke western riding horse and she is clearly not, she is bare foot as the farrier said she has great feet, we keep her hoofs picked and i always make sure to spray her with fly spay so the flys are not bugging her wall riding. And the riding problem isnt just that she likes to buck, its mostly because she tenses the second the rider trys controlling, the second the rider takes the reins or reminds her she is on them such as kicking or squeezing with there legs trying to get her to move she tenses. She may wave her tail a little i have never noticed as when she does this we are mostly focused on getting her calm and dismounting i will walk and trot her around the corral some times before i ride but not that often well usally someone is leading her around but if someone is leading yes she does guide, but if the rider controls she only goes crazy.
Thanks!
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Tip of the Day - Watching a top Cowboy ride a tough bucking horse the full eight seconds at the Rodeo..Is the stuff dreams are made of! Riding one you own at your place is....how most nightmares start!!
Thank you so much for your question. By reading your description, a couple of things are very easy to see. You won't need to pack a lunch when taking your mare on a trail ride, you must really love horses to worry about flies bothering her and I have a used car that was only driven by a little old lady on Sundays that I would like to sell you!!! (No Test Drive necessary) Seriously, the behavior you describe is an unacceptable and potentially dangerous one. If the seller represented her as a "Babysitter", what he has done is actually criminal. With three professional trainers giving up on her, I find it perplexing why you would want to continue to try and make it work. I feel this behavior is way out of hand as well but I will try and give you my take on it anyway.
Your detailed description gives us a few clues. And the riding problem isnt just that she likes to buck, its mostly because she tenses the second the rider trys controlling, the second the rider takes the reins or reminds her she is on them such as kicking or squeezing with there legs trying to get her to move she tenses. She may wave her tail a little i have never noticed usally someone is leading her around but if someone is leading yes she does guide, but if the rider controls she only goes crazy.
Not being there to witness these issues in person, I can only surmise a few things from your words...The weight on her back, squeezing with your heel or leg, wringing of the tail... all are symptomatic of several possible physiological issues. Soundness in this day and age comprises much more than a horse's limbs being normal. I would want a Vet or Chiropractor to check her back, neck, and vertebrae.
I would also have a Vet check her kidneys and palpate her female parts looking for any anomaly such as cysts or tumors on her ovaries. The dramatic change that takes place when you try to control her with the bridle, points to discomfort of some kind with her mouth. Have her teeth been floated recently? (twice a year is best) I would consider using less bit.
After addressing the above possibilities, it might well be time to try going back to basics and try long lining. When she is listening to your commands, going forward, turning both directions, stopping and backing you might then return to saddle work. Before I would ride her, each time after saddling and cinching her loosely, I would lunge her at the walk trot and canter both directions for 5-10 minutes tightening the cinch very slowly maybe two or three times.
If after going through all this and you discover she has no physical problems and the remedial training had no success, it might be time to consider sending her to a reputable trainer for 30 days, replacing her or taking up another hobby.
I wish I could think of more positive things to tell you. I hope what I have said will be of help or give you some food for thought I wish you Good Luck and Good Riding.
LF Lavery
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January 20, 2012
“He ain’t Acting like My Buddy”
(Dealing with a “Foot Biter”)
I own a 17 year old quarter horse paint gelding that is very spunky and walks very fast. I got him 2 years ago and was told he was very broke but have been having problems with him. I was a very avid rider in my late teens and twenties...however, I am in my early 50’s now and it has been many years since I have ridden so I am very cautious and careful and somewhat fearful. I am working on getting my balance back and when I ride Buddie and ask him to move into a trot....he swings his head around and appears to want to bite my foot......
This move throws me off balance and I don’t know how to react....what should I do to make him stop this behavior? Any help you can provide will be much appreciated!
Thanks.
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Tip of the Day – Rule #1……Without control of a horse’s head, you have very little input into any decisions the horse makes on his own.
Thank you so much for your question. So very glad to hear you have started back riding. I always suggest it is just like riding a bike…you never forget. However, unlike bicycles, which are pretty much all the same, horses can be quite different and can offer some real surprises. It sounds to me like your “Buddie ” is full of them with kind of a new twist on “biting the hand that feeds him”. The answer to your question is quite simple.. As the Tip of the Day suggests, it is imperative you maintain control of the horse’s head at all times. The more difficult answers are to the questions, “Why does Buddie do this? And how do I take control?”
The possible answers for why are many but as with most unwanted behaviors, they should fall in three categories: Physical, mental and training or lack of it.
From soundness, conformation, dental issues, shoeing and the tack you use and how it fits, “Physical” issues can cause all sorts of problems including that which you mention. It could well be that Buddie is not comfortable in one or more of these areas when you ask him to trot and is obviously displaying his displeasure. A good trainer would endeavor to find a possible cause by ruling each item out.
Mental issues do not necessarily mean a “shrink” and a couch but a bit of analysis is in order. You must try to determine if the horse is willfully displaying this behavior because he can or is he “defending” himself. This insight will be most helpful in dealing with and correcting the issue.
Training, or perhaps in this case, poor training or lack of it is often the culprit in these types of scenarios. Horses are beasts of habit and can easily learn a bad habit as quickly as a good one. Although, I prefer to think of proper training as guiding the horse in the right direction, prompt correction when he is wrong, can never be overlooked. A horse allowed to be bad will continue to get worse.
Were Buddie mine, I would start with the ”physical” category with special attention placed on dental issues and soundness. Either of these could easily be a trigger for the behavior you describe. Buddie is obviously showing his displeasure to some type of discomfort. Your task is to discover exactly what it might be and remove that “excuse”. Trial and error is the usual approach.
Mentally, it is obvious that Buddie is displaying a reaction to being asked to do something. Yes, he is doing it because he can but he might get my benefit of the doubt as the original reason the behavior started could fall within the other categories. Not giving him a free pass you understand but doubting he is a willful “outlaw”.
It is obvious that training is certainly a big part of the problem. At this point, it is really not important who, what, where, when or why. His training is unsatisfactory. Taking all of the above into consideration and having removed all possible “Triggers”, it is time for correction. Using your hands, feet, voice etc, it would be your task to not allow Buddie to ever repeat this behavior. Should he try, make it extremely uncomfortable for him. Start on a lunge line. Establish a signal for the trot (i.e. a cluck, a whistle the word "trot" ) Repetition, repetition, repetition. When he trots immediately off at the sound of the command, saddle up. Using the same command ask for the trot and at the first sign of any head tossing, make everything uncomfortable for him then leave him alone as a reward when he responds. Repetition, repetition, repetition. Buddie did not learn this behavior in a day, nor will you correct it in a day but take heart, if you are diligent, it will be corrected rather quickly.
I hope this has given you some food for thought and I thank you once again for your great question. Wishing you Good Luck and Good Riding,
LF Lavery
Askthetraineronline.com
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January 16, 2012 reprise
November 12, 2010
The Curb Has Me Stalled
(The Horse and the Stall Bridle)
Lonnie: I think this has probably been covered on your awesome site, but I have searched and cannot find it. Perhaps you can tell me where to look for the answer?
I need to know about stall bitting to help acclimate a horse to the curb. I have bitting tack but have used it only with a snaffle and don't want to do the wrong thing. Do I just put the surcingle on and attach the curb bit with fairly loose side reins so the horse can play around and find out for himself how the bit works? Should I tie the tongue?
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Tip of the Day - I don't know exactly when it happened, but it seems the "Stall Bridle" has gone from a very beneficial tool to an implement of torture! Horses are only supposed to wear it for a short time....NOT live in it!!
Thank you so much for you great question. I know that the thought of this can "Curb your enthusiasm". After being certain his dental work is up to date, the first and most basic rule about starting a horse in the curb bit.....he first must be wearing the snaffle perfectly!! The "bridoon" (the snaffle's proper name when placed in the double bridle) is the work horse of the double bridle, it turns, raises, lowers the head sets the speed, stops and backs. Contrary to popular belief, the curb is NOT an emergency brake, it is not supposed to steer or help one keep their balance when posting. Its sole duty is to tuck the horse's nose in order to distribute the balance of the horse whose head has been elevated by the snaffle. The Romans should have called it the "finesse" instrument.
When the Romans invented it, it was such a perfect tool that I venture to say it has had less changes (albeit thousands of modifications) than any other invention in history. It remains today basically unchanged, in principle.
A few things to remember when selecting a curb bit to use:
A Seal-Tex wrap is a good start. Other options: The shorter the shank, the less leverage, the higher the bit in the horse's mouth the less leverage, the lower the port the less pressure, the thicker the port, the less pressure, the looser the chain, the less leverage. Tying the tongue would depend on what the horse is used to.
That being said, It is always better to lead the horse around with the curb for a few days to help him acclimate to the new artillery in his mouth. This way, you can instantaneously release the bit should there be a problem. When you feel he "understands" the bit, you may then put him in a stall bridle, if you wish. I seldom recommend a curb bit stall bridle at this stage of the game, preferring it's use on older horses already accustomed to it. A stall bridle will not turn loose in an emergency as your hands can. I therefore like to ride and then sometimes drive in the curb instead.
When you have selected the correct bit, it must be placed in the horse's mouth correctly and at the right height. The surcingle need only have a ring at the very top of the back band as with a curb bit, side reins NEVER should be attached lower. The side reins should be elastic, adjustable and the same length. The idea is to fasten them in such a way that they simply encourage the horse to set his own head when he lifts too high. They are NOT meant to HOLD his head down. I would never suggest that the horse should be left alone when wearing a stall bridle. This is tantamount to his learning how not to wear the curb at best and injuring himself at worst. It is much better to stand at the door and observe, cluck and make him move around the stall should he "lug" or raise up to high. 10-15 minutes should be plenty. Much longer you will only teach him to resent the program.
I guess, that pretty much sums it up as to how I would do it. I thank you again for your question and hope this has been of some help to you. I wish you Good Luck and Good Riding!
LF Lavery
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January 13, 2012 reprise
| October 7, 2010
I can't afford a lungline right now but would like to start lunging my horse as he has not been riden in a while, would it be safe for me and my horse to use a long dog leash? And a meter long stick with a meter or so of rope tied to the end of it? I will not be able to afford these things for a few months and would like to get him in shape to be ridden again as soon as possible.
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Tip of the Day - Fine "Corinthian" leather and 24 carat Gold plating do not make training equipment any more efficient.
Thank you for your question, I have just completed a chapter in my book on just this very topic. Times being what they are and training equipment seeming to just get more and more expensive... it makes perfect sense to look a bit closer to home for "tools" you can use on your horse. However, having never seen a Dog leash longer than 12 foot... Please do not attempt to lunge your horse with one. I would consider no length less than 18 feet to be a safe one for a lunge line with 20 - 25 feet even better. If you are not well versed in the art of braiding (baling twine can be fashioned into a wonderful rope) Cotton rope makes an excellent alternative to an expensive lunge line. It should be at least 1 inch thick and can usually be procured at a discount "hardware" or a Wal- mart type store for less than 25 cents a foot. A large, heavy duty snap is then affixed to one end and you have created a useful lunge line. Always wear gloves of some kind and never wrap this rope around ANY part of your body while lunging. As far as a "whip" or a "flag", 1 meter is a bit too short. Second hand stores and junk shops are great places to find tools you need at a very reasonable price. Old fishing poles, thin "mop" handles, bamboo, PCV pipe, etc, can make a wonderful whip handle (5 ft or better) and here is a place to put some baling twine for the lash or a plastic shopping bag for a "flag". The orange "vehicle" flags also make a wonderful lunging appliance.
If you use a little ingenuity, and some thought you would be very surprised of the myriad of things you can find to substitute for expensive tack. In fact, many of those expensive items we use today were "morphed" from these types of common everyday things originally. Just walk through any training barn, Gate springs, "S" hooks, lengths of hose, dog collars, coffin bands, surgical tubing, rubber wrap, pulleys, diapers, fishing line, broom sticks, even shoestring and a thousand other things, all started out unrelated to horses until someone had an idea. The sky is the limit when training on a budget. Thanks again for your question, I wish you Good Luck and Good Riding.
LF Lavery
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January 9, 2012 reprise
October 24, 2010
A "Leading" Question
Canter Issues
Hi Lonnie. I recently met you at the River Ridge horse show and bought some of your bit stuff. I love it and it is making a difference in my mare's mouth. Thanks for the help!
Now, my biggest problem I am having is my left canter lead. I got my mare from SBR and she was with the amish for 4 years. I am working her back into a riding horse and hoping to show this year. However, even though I have perfected the trot both ways and the canter to the right, I can not get the left canter lead. What is even more bizarre is that she canters to the left in long lines perfectly. Now, I was taught that most problems are rider error and I agree with that, so maybe it is me. However, how could I have the canter perfect to the right and yet can't get it at all to the left? I have on occasion let her continue on the incorrect lead hoping she will switch it and she never does, not even in a circle. It almost feels like she takes it correctly and switches it in the second stride. At first I would really exaggerate the tip to the rail and once I realized it didn't help I decided not to tip her at all and I got it twice but had to run her into it. But now I can't get it again. I guess I am just looking for suggestions. Could this be a physical problem? Shall I have a chiropractor or massage therapist out to look at her? Here is the tricky part, once I ask for the canter a couple of times she gets fried and I lose my horse. I have always ended on a good note by turning around and trotting to keep her mind right but it doesn't help me with the canter. When I got her from SBR they said her left canter needs work. I can't even get the left canter to work on it. I am attaching two videos of her in long lines so you can see how good she is there, sorry I don't have any riding videos.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7MQAx6-UDw&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F38838i_NG0&feature=related
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for this great service you provide.
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Tip of the Day - When you really think about it, it is hard to understand why the canter causes so much trouble...It is, after the walk, the first gait most new born foals do.
Nice to hear you have experienced the difference "Bit Sweet" can make in a horse's mouth. Hard to believe just a few drops can make your ride so much better. I wish rubbing some on your mare's left leg would help her canter. Surprisingly, the left lead is the one you will find most horses prefer cantering on in the wild, in the pasture, while at liberty. Much like there are more right handed people than left handed.
Your question is a good one but one that could have many answers. Your videos are excellent but give no real clues to the cause of your issue. In the Long Lines, your mare appears to be completely comfortable on both leads with a canter that is flowing and in control. That being said, we might well remember your statement about rider error. From all you have said and the great detail you have described the problem with, I doubt error has much to do with this but I would not rule out the "rider" part. By that I mean the variable between cantering so successfully in long lines and cantering so unsuccessfully under saddle, is the rider. Weight in the saddle can affect the horse's balance, can aggravate a weakness or injury in the horse's back, put more strain on a suspect hind leg or stifle. In general, a rider's body can very much change the dynamics of the canter for the horse. This is a possibility.
Keep in mind that the horse's mouth is the key to control and if it is uncomfortable, many problems which might seem unrelated can occur. Is her dental work up to date?
Although I truly believe most Amish get a bad rap as to the care of their horses, the "road" can be hard on them even though most American Saddlebreds are "Sunday" horses rather than their utility ones. Soundness problems as mentioned above can be brought on by the miles on asphalt and can manifest themselves with this type of cantering issues you are having. That being the case, seeking consul from a vet or chiropractor would be an excellent idea except for the fact there is no evidence of that type of problem on the video. I would try a few more things before you make the call but do make it if all else fails.
As you describe, cantering in the circle is the time tested way of correcting cantering issues that have to do with leads, form and speed. Again, excellent that you have tried this although it was to no avail.
You have approached this pretty much as I would have so there is little I can add. A couple things you might try:
*Keep your canter work in as small a circle as possible.
*For a while, attempt your canter only on the left lead.
*Canter on the lunge line before you ride.
*Try putting a bell boot or dog collar on the left front leg.
*Try the same on the left rear leg.
*When on the wrong lead going to the left, keep going as you decrease the diameter of the circle in hopes of her switching leads.
*Try riding with just a halter rather than a bridle.
Once again, thank you for your great question. I wish I could have been of more help but hope this has given you some food for thought. I wish you Good Luck and Good Riding!
LF Lavery
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January 6, 2012 reprise
March 24, 2010
I Don't Think I Am Fully Equipped!
(Essential training equipment for the young horse)
hello i am saddlebred owner and the hard economy has force me to school my own young horses. I need to know what training equipment is needed what books are any other aids that will help me school my new 3 year olds..........thanks...........
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Tip of the Day- Some people spend as much on horse equipment and such, as they did on their horse.
Thank you so much for your question. I think a multitude of people can identify with you conundrum. Fortunately, I just heard the President say things are getting better. In the mean time, let's see if I can be of some help.
I am embarrassed to say, I know of no definitive book for teaching someone to train a horse. Not to say one does not exist, simply, in nearly 50 years of training horses, I never met a single trainer who learned their craft from a book. Like driving a car, hitting a golf ball, shooting pool, skiing,swimming,riding a bike, ice skating, flying a plane, walking the "high wire", taming a lion or, for that matter, getting along with your spouse, all the books in the world will not make it happen....It is a "hands on" sort of thing. Reading about how to do it cannot replace the experience of doing it. Asking someone who knows for advice, when you can explain the problem you are having, is always an option, however.
Now, when it comes to the training equipment one would need to train a horse, I'm your man! After 40 years of running my own stable with 40 horses in training I am very familiar with the "tack" needed to train horses. Let me guide you around what was my 24' x 12' "work" tack room at Richlon Farms. Walking through the door, ahead on a half wall, 4 complete sets of jog harness with appropriate stand-up, round and rolled cruppers hung beside them as well as 3 sets of straight lines and 2 sets of draw lines. Also harnesses but for long lining and bitting rig work, 6 surcingles, 4 more cruppers of different styles, 3 sets of straight long lines (1- 23' and 1-32'), 3 sets of draw lines (again different lengths 2 with pulleys one set leather and rope), all hanging on the wall to your right. Also, on that wall were 8 sets of side reins for bitting rigs. They were of varying lengths and one or two were of elastic and leather construction. To your left you would find 17 work bridles. 7 of these would be used for riding and were equipped with snaps for quick bit change. There were 10 different sets of reins for these bridles, including thin, thick, straight, draw, German martingale, round and braided. For the most part, all also equipped with snaps for the quick change. The remaining bridles were for driving and included 5 full {"blinkered"} bridles (3-side checked and 2-over check) and 5 "open" bridles that were a mixture of side, over check and no check.To accompany these bridles were 12 running martingales, 2 German martingales, 1 Polish martingale and 1 standing martingale. Also in this area were about 20 cavessons. Flat, wide, thin, rolled, draw, small, large, beaded, metal. Additionally, the room housed about 100 different snaffle bits, and 8 different blinker hoods, sweat hoods, action and protective devices of every description not to mention a good deal of rope and complete sets of Hackney pony driving harness. There was also a saddle room and a "show" bridle room where each horse's bridle was kept. This room also housed the "show" fine harnesses in a glass fronted case. Of course, you will need a jog cart. I had 4 and I couldn't live without my stone sled. Guess that about sums up what you will need.
Now, if you don't have that many rooms to store you tack and you are only dealing with one horse, you could probably get by with.
- 1-complete,work jog harness that can double as a long line harness
- 1-set of long lines (leather or cotton or rope)
- 1-work bridle that could double as riding or driving
- 2-sets of reins 1-wide 1-thin
- 1-running martingale
- 1-set of 1/2 cup blinkers
- 1-cavesson
- 2-bits 1-smooth, 1-twisted
- Show bridle
- saddle
Other tack depends on the discipline chosen.
Nearly all of this can be purchased used and if taken care of properly can last a lifetime. I worked with harness and bridles some of which were 60-70 years old.
To be sure, you will want to add to the "short" list but one can truly get by with the tack I have mentioned. I hope this has been of some help to you and I thank you for your question. I look forward to hearing how you and your three year old are doing, so please let me know in the guest book. I wish you Good Luck and Good Riding!
LF Lavery
Any comments or suggestions on this or other topic are welcomed in the Guest Book!!
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January 2, 2012 reprise
February 3, 2010
Did You Mean Pole Bending or Poll Bending?
Correctly Setting the Horse's Head
Mr. Lavery
Enjoy your comments and suggestions. My question is about setting a horses head. What are some training techniques to get a horse to bend at the pole?
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
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Tip of the Day- Attempting to set the head of a horse whose neck appears to have swallowed a fence post... is a very daunting task!
Thank you so much for your question, I am certain it is a question asked thousands of times a day by horse trainers, riders and drivers of any discipline conscious of the fact that correct placement of the head is the key to maximum
performance. Because the horse's "center of balance" is in the head it's elevation, distance in front of the withers etc is critical to the performance of gaits and maneuvers associated with these various disciplines. Ground covering horses, such as race horses, hunters and the like are better served with a head lowered and well forward of the withers, while horses needing to display vertical animation, find it with elevated head that is collected back over the withers thus distributing the horse's weight back to the haunches thereby allowing the front end to elevate, For horses performing in this manner, it is important the neck bend as close to the poll as possible to achieve the proper attitude.
As mentioned in the Tip of Day, starting with a horse whose conformation lends itself to bending at the poll is starting a much easier job than with one whose conformation does not. Because of the mechanics involved, a horse that is forced into an uncomfortable position will never excel over a horse that is supple and comfortable with it's head set. That being said, it is possible to help even a straighter necked horse develop a spot for his head that is passable and more comfortable.
There are as many approaches to this as there are those thousands of questions about it. Two things stand out as constant in all credible approaches...It cannot be done overnight and it should not be forced on the horse. Hours, days, weeks, months of time spent suppling and stretching the muscles in the neck so that it might accommodate the desired head set are necessary to reach a pleasing outcome. Long lines, intelligently applied biting rigs, hours of harness and riding work will serve one well in this endeavor far surpassing any quick fix or trick bits. Judicial use of both over check and side check bridles ..various martingales and rein configurations can be of help at this juncture but, again, will not take the place of patient and diligent work. The key is to achieve as close to a perfect mouth as possible .. no dental issues.. a mouth of trust and confidence, much quiet time with easy bits,,, patience. Trying to force the horse will serve no purpose. You are changing the horse's physiology so that a more desirable head set can be more comfortably achieved by the horse.
I know this is not really a "How To"or "DIY" answer but this is basically about all I can give you in writing. If you keep the essence of this in mind, your particular approach, the tools you use and the desired end result will all fall into place. Once again, thank you for your question. I look forward to reading of your progress in the Guest Book. Good Luck and Good Riding!
LF Lavery
Any comments or suggestions on this or other topics are welcomed in the Guest Book!!
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December 30, 2011 reprise
September 12, 2009
Is More Less or is Less More?
(Effects of weight and length and package in shoeing)
Hey Lonnie!
I have a question that I've always been curious about but never asked anyone. I figured you might know; is it possible that a horse could have better [& more] motion without a big package? It seems to me that my horse had a harder time and worse motion with a package on, and now that he has just heavy plates on (country pleasure), he moves a lot better. I'm just wondering if that's possible?!
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Tip of the Day - Anvils are best used to make horseshoes...not as a replacement for them!!
Thank you so much for your question. As I travel around the country, it seems more and more people are confused about the answer to this question. It seems many people subscribe to the proposition that if a little is good ...a lot must be even better! The end result, in most cases is a disaster! In their quest for high motion many exhibitors and trainers have allowed the weight of shoes and length of hoof to become completely out hand. How high a horse goes is not the single benchmark for champion. How a horse goes is much more important. By that I mean a horse that is going very high but has a labored, erratic, non-rhythmic flight path can often be beaten by a horse with far less motion that is going correctly. As referred to in the Tip Of The Day, we have all seen horses that seem to have anvils on their feet and we are familiar with their "heavy" way of going. Aside from appearing artificial, horses with great lengths of hoof, heavy shoes and built up feet will end up paying a price for carrying such unnatural packages around the show ring. Soundness problems are almost inevitable as the effort, leverage and torque such shoeing jobs put on bones, tendons and muscles can do good deal of damage. Saddest of all, these Einsteins think this type of shoeing can replace proper conditioning and training and can make up for a lack of natural ability. They are wrong!!!
Your question was "is it possible that a horse can have better motion without a big package?" Let me put it this way....best way to stop a horse from winging...lighten him up.....Best way to stop a horse from knocking his elbows off...lighten him up....Best way to stop a horse from forging...lighten him up...Best way to stop a horse from interfering...lighten him up etc, etc, etc!!!! Finally...best way to stop a very talented, naturally high motioned athletic horse from using his legs....put a long foot and heavy shoes on him!!!! I am in no way suggesting that all show horses should wear plates and a 4 inch hoof. Sensible corrective shoeing is indispensable for balancing the horse and his gaits as each horse is different. The key word is sensible.
I always felt that if a horse had only enough ability to go almost level and he did so with a 20 oz shoe and went the same with 6 oz shoe, what possible reason is there to carry the heavier shoe? Less is better in that case as well!
I can point out many more examples but I am certain you have gotten the picture. Having just come from the World Championships I can tell you I was really taken aback by some of the shoeing jobs I saw there and surprised that horsemen of that caliber could fall in such a trap. You question was a welcome one, to be sure. I wish you Good Luck and Good Riding!!
LF Lavery
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December 26, 2011 reprise
| Oct 4, 2009
My question is: "How do you fix a rubbed out top of tail.? Our filly does not have worms but plays w/buckets, etc. by rubbing her rump. Her tail hair @ base is growing all crooked & wiry. How do you fix it? Thank to anyone who knows how!
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Tip of the Day - Even in this "Green" environment we live in...a horse's tail whose top looks like a solar collector... is frowned upon!!!
Thank you so much for your question. You would be amazed at how often I am asked this question. Although I have a product available through World Champion ( Lavery's Old Tyme Tail Balm) that can be of great benefit, money spent on products such as mine is a huge waste until you take some other steps first. To "fix" the problem, one must first identify the cause. You were quite right to think worms as a possible cause as it often can be. Ruling that out and other skin conditions which a vet can identify, it usually boils down to a hygiene issue coupled with a habit they have acquired because of it. To start, next time you go to a horse show where horses carry their tails up, look to that spot under the tail (dock) where it signifies the horse is from "O..hio" or "O...kalahoma." You will see built up dirt and grime there 75% of the time. This area is so often ignored one would even wonder if Captain Kirk would even go where no one had gone before! It is imperative this area be cleansed with a damp sponge or cloth every time the horse is groomed if you wish to discourage rubbing. The next area of concern is the top of the tail. It must be kept very clean, rinsed completely free of soap, and attended to each time the horse is groomed. It should be conditioned with low alcohol content products so the hair is soft and without a build up of oil or grease one can get from baby oil and other products. Circulation should be encouraged, and feathers carefully separated with your fingers or a very soft brush. (only an expert groom should ever attack a tail with a comb or a stiff brush) The rest of the tail from the end of the bone to the end of the length, is really never an issue with the rubbing unless it is braided in a haphazard fashion likely to catch on a bucket bale or some such thing. All the growth and healthy hair comes from the bone. You will need to wash and condition the length of course but your main concern for a healthy tail should be to focus on the tail bone. An earlier answer to a question similar to your's might fill in some more blanks for you....I quote:
July 14, 2009
Is there "Hair Club" for Horses?
(Keeping tail feathers while wearing a tail-set)
Hello,
I asked a question before about a saddlebred mare that would not go forward...she has improved greatly and is improving every day!! She is now in a full bridle, is not afraid of the bridle anymore, and will go forward willingly as long as she trusts you. I found that she took a long time to trust anyone, and gets very nervous if you scold her at all. The more "good girls" she gets, the better she is! Thank you for your help!
I do have another question though, I am going to take her to a show later this year, and just got her a tailset. Her tail was already cut before I bought her and is very loose (I stretch it a bit before I work her). How do you tie the tail into the set? The old trainer I was with had a hard time keeping nice tails, and I think it may have been with how he tied them in. The only way I learned to tie them in was with a towel folded over the tail feathers, and a tail net tied on top. The horses all rubbed out most of their feathers, and what was left were broken and mangled. I would really appreciate your opinion on how to keep a tail in the set without damaging hair!
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Tip of the Day - Maintaining American Saddlebred tail feathers is an art, not an accident!
Thank you so much for your question. Being somewhat folicly challenged myself, I can appreciate your concern over your horse's tail. Nothing more attractive than thick, long, healthy tail feathers and nothing uglier than a naked tailbone. While a switch is an easy fix for a thin or short tail, caps and artificial feathers are hard to apply correctly and usually look like just what they are. Let's see how we can avoid "Hair Club" for horses.
- Horses rubbing their tails account for the lion's share of hair loss.
- Hair that is brittle and not in good condition easily breaks.
- An ill fitting crupper can cause hair loss.
- Improperly applied crupper pads or bandages too tight or too loose can cause hair loss as can strings that are too thick.
The main trick is to keep your horse from rubbing his tail, sometimes not easy and even more difficult with a tail set. Beside grooming your horse on a daily basis, the tail must be kept clean and conditioned. A once a month shampoo is a good rule of thumb and remembering to rinse all traces of soap out is vital. Alcohol based products tend to dry the hair out and promote itching. Too much of any product tends to build up, clog pores and make the hair greasy rather than soft. I soon will be featuring the tail balm product my family has used with great success for many years. There are many fine conditioning products on the market as well. Equally important, the dock must be wiped clean daily. The tail bone is where all the hair comes from. It must never have its circulation interfered with. The padding in the crupper must be kept very clean. Using a light dusting of corn starch on the cotton or pad in the crupper will keep chaffing to a minimum. Sets should be changed every day. During fly season, an insect system is invaluable in keeping constant tail movement and breaking hair to a minimum.
A crupper that is too deep can virtually cut the hair, one that is too shallow wears the hair. The feathers should gently cascade over the sides of the "spoon" The crupper should neither be too tight or too loose simply secure. When securing the tail in the crupper, after dampening the top of the tail bone with water or a tail balm so that the hair is soft and will part easily, one usually places a very soft and padded towel, diaper or piece of cloth over the area. It should be long enough to cover the break over. The feathers are then carefully separated and strings attached to the crupper are carefully threaded through these separations and then tied on top of the pad. A variation is a crocheted "schnood" with cotton strings that lays over the pad and then the cotton strings are threaded down through the hair. Usually the rest of the tail and the crupper would then be enclosed in a tail bag. Although a bit pricey for an initial investment products made by Top Notch Tails will end up saving you money, are state of the art, simple to use, comfortable for the horse made out of hair friendly material that is washable and will last ions longer than cotton or your padded towel. Contact Jean Mead at 907-264-7463 for information.
I hope this has answered some of your questions. In summary, all I can say is taking care of a tail takes a lot of time and effort. The end product will be well worth it. Good Luck and Good Riding.
LF Lavery
We welcome reader comments, on this or any other training topic,in our Guest Book.
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I thank you again for your question and hope this is of some help to you. I look forward to reading of your progress with this issue in the Guest Book. Good Luck and Good Riding.
LF Lavery
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December 23, 2011 reprise
February 21, 2011
We Seem to be Having some Ups and Downs
(Horses that evade the bit and "over" bridle)
I have an 8yr. old mare, by Gypsy's Santana. She was started as a 3 y. old and has had off and on training due to several circumstances. She also took two yrs. off to have a foal. I now have the opportunity to start her again. She has always had a very,very light mouth. The moment you take any contact she dips and over flexes. She can hold her head high,but she tends to want to just carry it overflexed and down. Would working her with a overcheck teach her to stop diving down and how do I get her to carry the bit without diving down. She just keeps evading the bit. I rode her the other day and totally turned the reins loose,asked her to whoa and she still stopped with her head down and overflexed. How can I convince her to carry her head in a higher position,which I know she can do. She is built right for saddleseat division. Any thoughts to help me. I love to drive and really would like her to be a driving horse.
Thank in advance, Mr. Lavery, I forgot to add that I have only ridden or worked this mare in a smooth snaffle, or twisted snaffle.
Thanks again,
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Tip of the Day - Although very hard to explain without feeling it...a horse that will not take a little hold of the bridle is not necessarily a horse with a good mouth.
Thank you so much for your great question. Although I totally prefer a light mouthed horse to one who is heavy headed, strong, lugging and pulling, what you describe can certainly cause some problems. No matter what breed or discipline of riding horse you deal with, a rider should expect and appreciate a horse whose mouth allows the horse's head to maintain the proper frame for the individual discipline without being forced by the bridle, a horse that does not hit you in the head when the reins are turned loose and yet will step to the bridle when encouraged, is one with a good mouth because he is comfortable with his bit and bridle. The horse you describe is certainly one not comfortable and is displaying a behavior that is appears to be a defensive one. Why, of course, is the question.
Although sporadic, off and on training can certainly have an impact on a horse's ultimate performance, chances are the lack of a correct training program and the time "off" are not at the root of this behavior. The very fact that you have the same problem with a smooth snaffle or a twisted one does not point to a training issue. Rather, and I hate sounding like a broken record, every word in your description of this behavior, sounds like a classic case of a horse with dental problems. I assure you.....75% of all inquiries I receive concerning mouth troubles with horses could be easily improved or, in fact, solved by an equine dentist floating the horse's teeth. A simple procedure, performed twice a year, can make the difference between a wonderful horse and an absolute disaster. From "Wolf" teeth (blind, broken, un- removed), loose "caps" to the razor sharp edges of and misalignment of the molars, the dentist can virtually work miracles in a matter of minutes. Not only will the horse more readily accept the bit..his entire well being and health can change with the improvement of his mastication process not only making him a healthier horse...but saving you money on the wasted hay and grain. If you truly care about your horse and desire a better ride, there is no way around this important part of your horse's care.
I would suggest contacting a top horseman in your area for a referral to his Equine Dentist as there are, to be sure, some who call themselves dentists who are not at all honest or proficient. Although, in a pinch, a veterinarian would know about the teeth and the procedure, I prefer a dental specialist who does this on a daily basis.
Would you want a Dentist to perform your Colonoscopy???
That is where I would start... I thank you again for your great question and wish you Good Luck and Good Riding!!
LF Lavery
We welcome your comments in the Guest Book
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December 19, 2011
She is Very Tall but I Am Not Very High on Her Trot
(Training a Friesian Show Horse)
Hi Mr Lavery- a couple of years ago, your insight really helped me with my ASB pleasure horse. Hoping you might have some suggestions for a Friesian mare that I'm working. I started working her just about a year ago. She's about 13 years old, but in my opinion, she was only BARELY green broke when i took her on as my project. she'd been in the showring a few times, done some breed demo/drill stuff, but her basic training had consided of lead, longe saddle, and then ride. Run into the canter, only had one lead, had only ever worn a snaffle, and had never really been in consistent work since she was broke. She would tolerate (sort of) a short shanked pelham, but wouldn't really flex to it or anything. We had a ROUGH start, consisiting of the mare going one day out of the blue from "green, but I'll give it a try", to "GET OFF NOW, I HATE YOU!". I got dumped once, fractured (minorly, thankfully) a wrist, keeping myself from being launched another time. Mare got VERY good at quitting to the middle of the arena, hopping up and down, and generally had my number. Her dam has a reputation for throwing foals with kind of tough temperaments, and this mare showed this in spades.
It's not something I'd ever run into with a horse before- Growing up I was always kind of a pretty good rider. Not amazing or anything, but pretty capable and could ride out a fair amount of naughty behavior. Well, five or so years and big back surgery later, I'm just not the rider I used to be. The ground is a LOT harder than it used to be.... ;-) I almost quit with this mare SO many times, but it was a matter of self respect that I worked this out, so we worked and worked through the winter, took a hiatus from saddle seat to take some dressage lessons that didn't do us any favors, went back to saddle seat and by early this spring, I felt it was time to start working the mare towards wearing a full bridle.
I spent a LOT of time just bitting and longeing, and then long lining in a snaffle so she learned she could frame up and still go forward. My next step was to long line in a short shanked curb, wrapped to the nines. I had a HARD time getting this mare into a normal full bridle. For starters, this was a horse who only ever went in a big fat snaffle. She hated a single jointed bit, but all the double jointed bradoons tend to be twisted. I ended up finally just giving up on finding a smooth three piece bradoon and wrapped the heck out of the mouthpiece with sealtex, and she accepts that pretty well. I have been playing with the idea of getting a chain mouthpiece and wrapping the whole mouthpiece, but I hate to fork over more money for a bit that I don't know will work. We went with a low port, average shanked curb bit, and wrapped that mouthpiece too
We are showing Friesian Country Pleasure this season (and also hunter and costume classes) The problem we are now having is that in a work bridle (smooth french link snaffle and either a training martingale or a german martingale) , this mare doesn't have the best "saddle seat horse" trot in the world, doesn't pop her knees above level or anything, but when she has impulsion, the mare has a round, balanced, powerful trot and it does make rather a pretty picture. We just can't get a good trot in the full bridle- she always holds back behind the bridle instead of trotting up through it. Teeth were floated this spring- no really serious problems there.
I put the short shanked curb on her again, and she doesn't go forward any better, and REALLY doesn't wear the bridle then- just turns upside down.
If you go to http://www.buckeyebaroque.com and click on picture 36, there's a conformation shot of the mare from our show a couple of weekends ago, and a video of a class from a show the weekend before (you'll want to turn off the sound... my barn mates- dressage and western riders-were doing their best imitation of the saddle seat show world cheering section...... can you believe that I claim them? ;-)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpKLe145Nfk
You can see second way of the ring that she just STARTS to scratch the surface of her "nice" trot, but she has a whole other gear.... You can also see some remnants of her tendency to quit to the middle second direction at the canter... Ugh. But it was pretty good for her first "solo" class. she's a lot more honest when she's got some traffic in the ring with her.
Any suggestions on how to get her settled into her full bridle so she can find her trot? Any insights you have would be appreciated.
Thank you!
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Tip of the Day - When you are having "bit" trouble, you tend to have a good deal of trouble with those 3 M's,,,, Motion, Manners.. Maneuverability, as well.
Thank you so much for your great questions and for including the picture and the entertaining video. ( I enjoyed it with the sound up) She is a lovely mare. I, too, noticed that the older one gets the harder the ground becomes. One thing to remember, falling off of a 17 hand Friesian is exactly the same as falling off a Shetland pony...only the trip is a little longer!
You are to be commended for your perseverance and the time consuming steps you have taken to resolve your mare's issues. If you are certain there are no dental issues such as blind or broken wolf teeth, the usual cause for what you describe, we can look in other directions.
Conformation is one of the things that sets an athletic horse apart from a non-athletic one. Form to function. For a horse to really use his front legs, it must first possess a well laid back shoulder. The angulation of your mare's shoulder is very straight up and down. Not conducive to high motion.
Impulsion and drive must be present for high motion to appear. The amount of push that comes from behind is directly related to the height of motion the front legs may attain. Your mare does not appear to be pushing from behind but rather pulling herself along in front. The straightness of her hind legs and lack of development in her haunches make it difficult for her to push.
Of course, you have identified what is perhaps the biggest stumbling block to high animation....she is not wearing her bridle comfortably. A truly gifted horse needs only a very light touch of the bridle to elevate and then collect so the center of balance is in such a position as to allow the front legs to climb and even on a rather loose rein. A horse that lacks the "tools" to use his legs usually must be pushed to the bridle so the riders hands can strongly help with the lifting of those legs. Not an ideal scenario, but often a necessary evil.
Were she mine, here is what I would do.
Proper angles of her front feet can be helpful in insuring she is getting the most use of her shoulders. Working her in a dog collar or even an elastic chest developer of the correct length, can also help by keeping her shoulders supple.
Putting aside the romantic stories of Lancelot and the round table, one must never forget your lovely mare actually comes from Draft stock. A light draft horse to be sure but a draft horse. Draft horses must pull to do there job and a horse that drives learns to use their rear ends to push and therefore pull the load. I would hitch this mare in a "New York" minute. Driving will not only help develop her rear end but you will be amazed how much it will improve her mouth not mention a really fit horse usually does not "quit" the second way.
Winding down to the bridling issue, I must say, here you have me confused. You state in a snaffle she doesn't have a good S/S trot but sometimes you like it better than with a curb? You mention she doesn't push "through" the bridle? I would never want one through the bridle only stepping TO it. Keeping in mind that the standard width 51/2 inch bit is way to narrow for a Friesian and a "tight" bit can also cause the problems you describe, I would make sure that whatever bits (Bridoon or curb) I chose were the correct width. My first thought would be a bit such as pictured below. Only smooth. From World Champion:
But after looking at the USEF"S Friesian rules for Country Pleasure, I see there are really many options. I quote:
FR128 Appointments.
1. Bridle shall be light, show type, either single snaffle, single curb, curb and snaffle, or pelham bit. No martingales or tie-downs.
That's about all I can think of. As mentioned above, with the dedication you have already displayed, and the steps you have already taken and a lot of Seal-tex, I feel confident that by adapting some of these suggestions, you will have you mare firing to the very best of her ability in the spring.
Thanks again for your great question. Good Luck and Good Riding.
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December 12, 2011
Which shoes are right?
(Shoeing the Foundered horse)
Good Afternoon,
My question is what would you suggest for shoeing a horse with laminites, or maybe road founder? I came across a very pretty, and very sweet Saddlebred mare that was gated once in her life. The past owner used her as a brood mare. She has not had shoes on in at least 4 years. I have hoped on her and she did not miss abeat! It was as if she was thankful that someone thought something enough of her to ride her again. She slow gated with ease, trotted fine, and cantered both leads with no problem what so ever like she she has been worked for the last 4 years (she was only a brood mare). She never once threw or bobbed her head like she was in any pain. But, she stands up with her back end under herself with her front legs forward, not as being parked out, due to the back end. Hope this helps, and hope you maybe able to suggest something that may help this mare!!
Thanks so much for your time!!
P.S. I also have her on the platinum performance joint supplement, and Iron Horse hoof and sole
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Tip of the Day - Being a little lame is much like being a little pregnant!
Thank you so much for your question. In this case, actually seeing what you describe would make things much easier. To be sure, standing as you say is a classic symptom of laminitits ( as is dragging the front feet while backing up) but to then travel soundly is certainly a puzzlement. Being equally lame in both front feet could explain the lack of head "bobbing" but then I doubt she could perform as well as you mention. These questions make it difficult for me to suggest anything. How can you deal with, treat, train, medicate or shoe a horse you really have no clue what is wrong with them? Knowing exactly what you are dealing with makes designing a course of action or treatment immensely more effective. One thing that would answer these questions and that would be my first suggestion to you, have a set of X-rays taken. This is the only way to truly establish whether or not she is truly foundered.
Laminitis (founder) has to do with increased circulation of blood through the hoof laminae and the destruction of tissue that suspends the pedal bone, allowing the bone to turn, point down toward the sole of the hoof. Looking like a miniature triangle, the coffin bone's flat side lies parallel to the ground and is the lowest skeletal support for the leg and body. When the point turns down, the weight of the "framework" above drives the point painfully into the sole of the hoof causing much discomfort. Bringing the hind legs up under the body is how a horse attempts to relieve that discomfort by shifting the weight off of the front feet. There is no cure for founder but there are ways that may prevent more serious conditions and may allow the horse to be serviceably sound.
The theories of treating and shoeing the foundered horse are nearly as many as there are vets and farriers. I once had a veterinarian, a nationally known and recognized expert in the field of founder, instruct me to have the farrier raise the horse's heels ten degrees. This was the day after my old time vet had suggested we might lower her feet five degrees. ( in the end, my old time vet was right ) Keep in mind we haven't even talked about shoes yet, "medieval" heart bars, egg bars, reversed toe, pressure packing etc. etc.
If it were me, I would have her x-rayed and if she is indeed foundered, using those x-rays as a guide, I would have my vet and farrier work together as partners and figure the correct way to make her comfortable.
I hope this has been of some help to you and I thank you again for your great question. Wishing you Good Luck and Good Riding.....
LF Lavery
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Is There No Priceline for Boarding?
(Cost of boarding a horse)
Hello There, I am Nick, i need to board my horse away from home for three months as i will be traveling for vacation with my family, he has being on boarding before now for a month and he did great there ... I have the coggin and health certificate, i will need a full stall boarding for the three months ..
Let me know what this will cost me.
December 5, 2011 |
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Tip of the Day - If a stable's charge for boarding is more than $100 less than the other stables in the area, make sure there is manure!
Thank you so much for your great question. The horse community could learn a lot from those who run Dog Boarding facilities. It seems very cut and dried and easy to understand. To board a big dog at our local facility, it is $30.00 per day. (or $900 per month) For that, they will put him in a 4'x8' pen, give him about three quarts of water, about 1 lb of food, hose down his pen and walk him for 4-5 minutes each day. That is pretty much it. Smaller dogs are a little cheaper.
Unfortunately, it is a little more confusing when we deal with boarding horses. To help explain this to you, I am going to do something a bit unusual for me, I am not going to answer your question but rather, I am going to tell you a story.
There once was a little girl who wanted a pony very badly. Her father was not too thrilled with this and cited the costs involved with his reasons for refusing to get her a pony. Aside from the purchase price, he was most concerned with the monthly, board bills. Not deterred, the child decided to do some research and spent about a week checking the boarding facilities in her area. At the right time, she gave her report to her father. It was something like this.
"Daddy, I found bunches of places to keep a pony and at all different prices."
Her Dad replied, "Ok honey, since you have gone to all this trouble, tell me about it but do not get your hopes up, I am not made of money." "Alright Daddy," She began, "Happy Trails boarding stable gives you a 12'x12' box stall, free choice feed and water, daily turn out in an acre paddock, grooming before and after turn out, they will get the pony ready for me when I come to ride on their trails, outdoor or indoor ring and they have an automatic manure removal system so the stalls are always clean with no manure in them."
"Wow, that sounds great but how much is that?"
She replied, "Only $700 per month."
Her father was visibly shaken as he responded, "That is completely out of the question!"
"But there is more Daddy," she offered. "Just down the street at Twin Pines, they give you a 12'x12' stall, free choice feed and water, daily turn out, they groom once a day, they will get my pony ready when I come to ride, they have trails and an outdoor ring and the stalls are cleaned twice day so there is no manure in them."
"How much?", he said.
"Only $500 per month!"
"That is way too much."
"Okay Daddy, but at Riverside Stables, it is really a good deal, only $350 per month. They give you a 12'x12' stall, free choice water and they feed twice a day, they turn them out every other day, we will have to get the pony ready when I want to ride, they only have an out door ring but it is nice, and they clean the stalls once a day so there is no manure in them."
Dad says, "Well, that's a little better but still too much."
This goes on with several other stables, each a little cheaper and each with fewer amenities, none of which is cheap enough for the father. Finally she comes to the last barn on the list. "Well, Dad, Lazy Dog Ranch is the last one on my list and the cheapest. They will give us a stall, all the water the pony wants, but there is no place for turn out, I can ride on the driveway and we get all of this for only $75.00 a month."
Dad smiles and says, "Now you're talking! That is the kind of price I can live with! Water, ride on the driveway, I think you should know how to get your pony ready. But, what about the manure?"
"Daddy," she said, " I asked the owner the same question and he said, For $75.00 a month, there ain't no manure!"
So there you have it, depending on how many extras you want your horse to have, how fancy a place you want to be at, what part of the country you are in, I would think you could spend anywhere from $150 - $650 per month to board a horse. As the Tip of the Day and this little story elude, be suspicious of a price much cheaper than the others in the area as you know the old adage... "You get what you pay for."
Thank you again for your question. I hope this has been some help to you. I wish you Good Luck and Good Riding!
LF Lavery
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